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Error codes · Samsung · Ranges & ovens

Samsung range & oven error codes: most of them are the oven sensor, the door lock, or a key held down.

A Samsung range prints its codes with a dash — C-21, C-d1, C-F2 — and beeps every few seconds until it is cleared. There are not many, and most point at one of three things: the oven temperature sensor, the door lock on a self-clean model, or the touch panel. Find the code below, work the checks in order, and read the strip above the table before you reset — a range is reset at the breaker, not by pulling a cord.

Covers: 2016-and-newer freestanding and slide-in ranges — electric (NE58, NE59, NE63), gas (NX58, NX60), induction (NE63T, NE63B) and the Bespoke slide-ins.

Jump to the codes Text (573) 353-8511
Jump to a code · 11 on this page

The code as the display prints it; an older spelling sits under it on the card.

Samsung · First

Before you clear it

Samsung prints a letter-and-number code (4C, dC, HE). Older displays printed the same faults with an E (4E, dE, HE) — the pages list both.

1

Samsung ranges print the code in the clock display with a dash (C-21, C-d0, C-F0); the dash is part of the code. The older ranges printed a stuck key as two letters (SE) — the table lists both.

2

The reset: switch the range's double breaker off for one full minute and back on. Do not pull a range cord — a 240V cord is heavy, the plug is behind the range, and the outlet is an electrician's to touch. A gas range plugs into an ordinary outlet and can be unplugged, but the breaker is simpler. After the reset the clock blinks; set it and try the oven.

3

Hold Clear/Off for three seconds to cancel whatever the oven was doing before you judge a code. A code that shows again on the next bake is real.

4

A gas smell is never a code. Turn the knobs off, open a window, leave the house and call the gas company from outside; the range waits. The gas valve, the igniters and the gas line are a licensed gas fitter's work; a 240V cord or outlet is an electrician's.

5

A Wi-Fi model shows the code in the SmartThings app. The model and serial plate is on the frame behind the oven door (open the door and look at the left side of the frame) or on the frame behind the storage drawer — pull the drawer all the way out.

Section 1 of 2

The oven

An electric oven that never heats and prints nothing is an element — look through the window for the bake element glowing a minute into a bake; a cracked or blistered element is replaced from inside the oven, a part. A gas burner that clicks and never lights, or an oven that lights late with a whump, prints nothing either — that is the igniter or a dirty burner, gas parts, a technician's job.

C-21#1

Also printed as C21

Service call
Code

Oven temperature sensor

What it means

The oven temperature sensor — the thin probe sticking into the oven at the top back corner — reads open or shorted. The control cannot read the oven's temperature and will not heat it.

Check first
  1. Switch the breaker off for one minute and back on, set the clock, and start a bake.
  2. Open the oven and look at the probe at the top back: pushed back into the wall by a rack or a pan, bent, or its tip blackened and crumbling.
The fix

A sensor that reads open after a reset is the sensor — a part a technician replaces from inside the oven (two screws and a plug behind the back wall). The cooktop still works meanwhile.

Stop & call

C-21 after a reset is a service call. Stop using the oven until it is seen; the cooktop is fine. On a range under warranty it is a warranty call.

C-30#2

Also printed as C-31 · C30 · C31

Service call
Code

Oven too hot while cooking

What it means

The oven sensor read a temperature far above what the bake or broil asked for, and the control shut the heat off. Either the oven really was that hot — a relay stuck on — or the sensor is misreading.

Check first
  1. Was the oven on self-clean, or was the door opened during a broil? Let it cool completely, reset at the breaker, and bake at 350°F with an oven thermometer on the middle rack.
  2. A bake element that glows with the oven switched off, or an oven that keeps climbing past the set temperature, is a relay stuck on — switch the breaker off now.
  3. A thermometer reading near 350°F while the code shows is the sensor misreading.
The fix

A stuck relay is the relay board; a misreading sensor is the sensor — both parts a technician replaces. Do not keep resetting an oven that overheats.

Stop & call

C-30 is a service call. An element that stays on with the oven off, or a burning smell, is breaker off now — do not use the oven until it is seen.

C-32#3

Also printed as C-33 · C32 · C33

Check, then call
Code

Oven too hot in self-clean

What it means

During a self-clean the sensor read a temperature above the limit the control allows, and it stopped the clean.

Check first
  1. Let the oven cool completely (an hour or more — the door stays locked until it does), then reset at the breaker.
  2. Run a bake at 350°F with an oven thermometer; an oven that bakes true was a one-off and the clean can be tried again with the kitchen windows open.
The fix

A C-32 on every clean, with the oven baking true, is the sensor at its high end or the relay board — a part, a technician's. Skip self-clean until it is seen; the oven bakes meanwhile.

Stop & call

C-32 that returns on the next clean is a service call. Stop running self-clean until the technician has been; normal baking is fine.

C-d1#4

Also printed as Cd1

Check, then call
Code

Door lock fault

What it means

The motorized door lock on a self-clean model did not reach locked, or did not reach unlocked, when the control drove it.

Check first
  1. The oven is cool — the lock will not release above about 500°F; wait an hour after a clean.
  2. The door is pushed fully shut; a rack rail or a warped door gasket holding it a hair open stops the lock from seating.
  3. Reset at the breaker. Listen for the lock motor running for a few seconds when the clean starts.
The fix

A lock that still cannot travel with the oven cool and the door shut is the lock motor or its switch — a part behind the control panel. Do not pry the door; a technician releases the lock.

Stop & call

C-d1 with the oven cool and the door shut is a service call. A door locked shut stays shut until the lock is replaced — never pry it.

C-d0#5

Also printed as SE · 5E · Cd0

Fix at home
Code

Key stuck

What it means

The touch panel sees a key held down for more than a minute. The older ranges printed this as SE.

Check first
  1. Wipe the panel dry and clean — steam off a pot, or a splash while cleaning, holds a membrane key down for a while.
  2. Press each key once and feel for one that does not spring back.
  3. Switch the breaker off for one minute.
The fix

A key that stays stuck after cleaning and a reset is the touch panel — a part, the whole panel assembly on most models. The cooktop still works on a knob-control range meanwhile.

C-A2#6

Also printed as CA2

Check, then call
Code

Cooling fan fault

What it means

The fan that cools the control panel while the oven runs is not turning when the control asked for it, or spun with nothing asking.

Check first
  1. Start a bake and listen at the back of the range after a minute — a soft whir from behind the control panel is the fan running.
  2. The vent slots at the back of the range are clear; a range pushed hard against a wall or a back splash can block them.
  3. The control panel feels hot to the touch halfway through a bake — the sign of the fan not running.
The fix

A fan that never runs is the cooling fan motor or the board that drives it — a part behind the back panel, a technician's. Keep bakes short until it is seen; a panel run hot fails early.

Stop & call

C-A2 with the vents clear is a service call. The oven works meanwhile, but a control panel baked without its fan is the next repair — do not put the call off.

SAb#7

Also printed as SAB

Fix at home
Code

Sabbath mode is on

What it means

Not a fault. The oven holds a bake temperature with the display, the beeps and the oven light switched off for the Sabbath.

Check first
  1. The display reads SAb and no key answers except the one that ends the mode.
The fix

Press and hold the button the manual names for Sabbath (Clock on most Samsung ranges) for three seconds; the display returns.

LOC#8

Also printed as Loc

Fix at home
Code

Control lock is on

What it means

Not a fault. The oven controls are locked so a child cannot turn the oven on; the display reads LOC or shows the padlock.

Check first
  1. Press and hold the key the panel marks with the padlock (Clear/Off held for three seconds on many Samsung ranges) until the display clears.
The fix

The lock turns off and the panel answers again. On a gas range the burner knobs still work with the lock on — it locks the oven, not the knobs.

Section 2 of 2

The boards

A clock flashing 12:00 after a storm is a power blip, not a code — set it and carry on. An induction range's cooktop prints its own short marks on the burner displays (a residual-heat mark after cooking, a pan-detection mark when nothing sits on the zone); they are not oven codes and the manual's cooktop pages read them.

C-F0#9

Also printed as CF0

Service call
Code

Boards not talking

What it means

The main control board and the touch panel lost communication with each other.

Check first
  1. Switch the breaker off for five full minutes, switch it on, set the clock and try a bake.
The fix

A C-F0 that comes back is one of the two boards or the harness between them — a service call.

Stop & call

C-F0 after a five-minute power cut is a service call. Both boards sit behind the control panel; nothing to check at home.

C-F1#10

Also printed as CF1

Service call
Code

Control memory fault

What it means

The control board could not read or write its own stored settings (the EEPROM).

Check first
  1. Switch the breaker off for five full minutes, switch it on, set the clock and try a bake.
The fix

A C-F1 that comes back is the main control board — a part, a technician's job.

Stop & call

C-F1 after a five-minute power cut is a service call on the main board. Note whether the oven heats at all; the technician will want to know.

C-F2#11

Also printed as CF2

Service call
Code

Touch panel not answering

What it means

The touch panel and the main control stopped talking — the panel's own board, or the ribbon between them.

Check first
  1. Switch the breaker off for five full minutes and try again.
  2. A panel that answers some keys and not others, or lights only part of the display, is the panel itself.
The fix

A C-F2 that comes back is the touch panel board or its ribbon — a part, replaced as the panel assembly on most models. A service call.

Stop & call

C-F2 after a five-minute power cut is a service call. The burner knobs on a gas range still work; the oven waits.

Warranty · When to file

When it's a warranty call

Every unit leaves with the manufacturer's full factory warranty. The codes below name a part inside the machine — once the checks have ruled out the install, the power and the hoses, call Samsung's line with the model and serial, and text us if you want a hand with the claim.

Warranty help for Samsung

All units are surplus inventory (open box, cancelled order, customer return, overstock, or minor scratch & dent). Every unit includes the manufacturer's full factory warranty. Please inspect thoroughly in person before purchasing — cosmetic imperfections or missing accessories are possible.

Still stuck?

Text us the model number and what it's doing — we'll point you at the next step.

A fix, a part, or a warranty call — the plate's model and serial plus one line about the symptom is all it takes to tell which.

File a warranty inquiry Text (573) 353-8511Browse InventoryOr reach us another way

These pages are educational. Every appliance is a little different — follow the manufacturer's manual and local code, and leave gas, water heater and 240V work to a licensed installer.

Read next: Range & oven troubleshooting (no code) · Range & oven care & upkeep · Range & oven codes on other brands

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