Samsung washer-dryer combo error codes: a washer's codes, plus the heat pump's.

The fill never raised the water level in time. The water is not reaching the valve.

1. Both taps behind the machine are fully open, hot and cold.
2. The fill hoses are not kinked and the inlet mesh screens are clean.
3. The hoses are on the right inlets — hot to hot, cold to cold.

Open the taps all the way, clean the screens, straighten the hoses, reset and run a Rinse + Spin. With everything open and clean, the inlet valve is the part.

The pump ran and the level did not drop. On a combo the drain also carries the dry cycle's condensate, so this shows as a long or failed dry too.

1. The drain hose is not kinked and sits only 4–6 inches into the standpipe — pushed to the bottom it siphons.
2. The pump filter behind the lower panel is clean (a coin, a sock, a hair tie).
3. The standpipe takes a bucket of water without backing up.

Clean the pump filter, set the hose, clear the house drain, reset and run a Spin. A pump that hums with a clean filter and moves nothing is the pump.

The leak sensor in the base saw water, or the level dropped during the cycle.

1. The drain hose is hooked in the standpipe with an air gap, not sealed or pushed to the bottom.
2. Both fill hoses and their washers are dry at the machine and the wall.
3. Too much or the wrong detergent — a suds overflow reads as a leak; HE detergent, the manual's amount.

Fix the hose or the detergent, dry the base (tip the machine back carefully or wait a day), reset. Water in the base with every hose dry is an internal leak — a warranty call.

Foam filled the drum and the control is pausing to let it settle before it drains.

1. HE detergent only, and no more than the manual's amount — the combo uses little water.
2. The pump filter is clean, so the suds can drain.

Let the cycle finish; run a Rinse + Spin empty, then use less detergent. It clears itself.

The dry side climbed past its sensor's limit — the heat pump's air is blocked.

1. The lint filter in the door rim is clean.
2. The condenser / pump filter behind the lower panel is clean — the number-one combo call.
3. The grilles have the manual's clearance and the room is under the ambient limit (a hot closet or garage).

Clean both filters, give it air, reset, and run a dry on half a load. A code that returns with clean filters in a cool room is the thermistor or the compressor circuit — a warranty call.

A thermistor on the wash or the dry side read open or shorted.

1. The reset: unplug one minute, then a short dry on half a load.
2. The filters are clean (a sensor packed in lint reads wrong).

Clean the filters and reset. A sensor code that stays is the thermistor — a part under warranty.

The main board and the sub board lost contact — the control itself, not the install.

1. The reset: unplug one full minute, plug back in.
2. The plug is firm in a dedicated outlet of the plate's voltage, not an extension cord or a shared circuit.

Reset once. A code that comes back is a board or its harness — a warranty call.

The power dropped mid-cycle; the control remembers and tells you.

1. A 240V combo on the dryer's 30-amp circuit with the cord's three connections tight; a 120V combo on its own outlet, not shared with a freezer or a heater.
2. The breaker and any GFCI are reset.

Restart the cycle. A PF on a dedicated, correct circuit with tight connections that repeats is the board.