Samsung dryer error codes: most of them are the vent, the lint, or the door.

The control measured heat at the exhaust far above what the cycle asked for and switched the heater off. Almost always the hot air cannot get out of the dryer.

1. The lint screen — pull it, scrape the lint, then wash it in warm water with a soft brush. A screen that beads water is coated in dryer-sheet film and blocks the air; dry it before it goes back in.
2. The duct behind the dryer — pull the machine out and look. A foil hose crushed flat against the wall, a kink, or a run of white vinyl hose is the problem; the transition should be rigid or semi-rigid metal, as short and straight as it can be.
3. The hood outside — go out while the dryer runs and feel for air. A flap stuck shut with lint, a screen over the opening, or a bird's nest in the cap means the duct is blocked at the end.
4. The load — one big comforter, or a drum packed tight, covers the exhaust grille at the back of the drum and holds the heat in. Dry a bulky item alone with room to tumble.

Clean the screen, clear the duct and the hood, and run a Time Dry. A dryer that still prints HC with the duct disconnected from the back (run it empty for two minutes that way, in a garage or with the room open — never for a load) has a heating relay stuck on, a failed thermistor or a cycling thermostat — a part, replaced inside the cabinet.

The vent sensor read the back pressure in the exhaust and found the duct roughly 80% blocked. The dryer still runs; the cycle takes longer and the clothes come out damp.

1. The lint screen is clean and washed (see HC above).
2. The duct behind the dryer is not crushed or kinked, and it is metal, not white vinyl.
3. The hood outside opens when the dryer runs and the cap is clear of lint.
4. The full run of duct through the wall or the ceiling — a long run collects a mat of lint on every elbow. A duct brush kit from the hardware store clears a straight run; a run with several elbows or a roof exit is a vent-cleaning service.

Clear the duct end to end, then run the vent test again from the panel — a clear duct gives a plain cycle screen. The code is a measurement, not a fault in the dryer.

The vent sensor found the duct roughly 90% blocked — nearly shut. The dryer runs hot and slow until it is cleared, and HC is next.

1. Everything under C80, in the same order — the screen, the transition hose, the hood, then the run through the wall.
2. A hood with a louvered flap frozen or painted shut, or a pest screen packed with lint, shows this number on its own.

Clear the whole run and re-run the vent test. If a freshly cleaned duct still reads C90, the duct is too long for the dryer (over 35 feet of developed length, each elbow counting 5) and needs a shorter route or a booster fan — an installer's job.

The vent sensor found the exhaust blocked almost completely. The dryer will not heat properly until the duct is open.

1. The transition hose behind the dryer — a hose crushed flat when the machine was pushed back prints this at once.
2. The hood outside — put a hand over it while the dryer runs; no air at all means the block is in the wall run or the cap.
3. A new install: the duct cap is on and the hood's flap moves freely.

Open the duct and re-run the vent test. Nothing in the dryer needs replacing for this code.

The thermistor that reads the exhaust temperature is open or shorted — the control cannot see how hot the air is. On older displays tO was the sensor open and tS (read as t5) the sensor shorted.

1. Cut the power for one minute (the breaker on an electric dryer) and run a Time Dry on Air Fluff.

A sensor code that comes back is the thermistor or its connector, inside the cabinet at the blower housing — a part a technician replaces. The dryer will not heat until it is.

The motor did not turn when the control drove it, or its speed sensor reported nothing. A drum that cannot move prints the same code.

1. Open the door and turn the drum by hand. A drum that will not turn has something caught between it and the front or back bulkhead — a bra wire, a pen, a child's sock.
2. Take half the load out of a packed drum.
3. Cut the power for one minute and run an empty Time Dry. A drum that turns freely by hand but never under power is the motor or its board.

A 3C that shows with a normal load after a reset is the drive motor, its sensor or the control board — a service call, not a home repair. A drum that turns under power but makes a thump every turn is a worn roller or a flat spot on the belt, a different repair with no code.

The power coming in is too low or too high for the control to run safely.

1. The dryer runs straight from its own outlet — never an extension cord or a power strip, and never shared with a window unit or a space heater.
2. Electric: both halves of the double breaker are on; a breaker that looks on but sits a hair off center has tripped on one leg — push it fully off, then on.
3. The lights in the room do not dim when the dryer starts. If they do, the problem is the house wiring or the outlet, not the dryer — an electrician's.

Fix the supply and the code clears. A dryer on a sound outlet that still prints 9C1 has a fault on its own board — a service call.

The main control and the panel lost communication with each other.

1. Cut the power for five full minutes, restore it and try a cycle.

An AC code that comes back is a board or the harness between them — a service call.