Error codes · Samsung · Microwaves

Samsung microwave error codes: most of them are a stuck key or a sensor.

A Samsung over-the-range microwave prints only a handful of codes, and the one most people meet is SE — a key the panel believes is held down. The rest are sensors: the cavity temperature sensor and the humidity sensor that runs Sensor Cook. Find the code below, work the checks in order, and clear it with the reset in the strip above the table. Nothing inside the cabinet is a home repair.

Covers: 2016-and-newer over-the-range microwaves (ME16, ME17, ME18, ME19, ME21, Bespoke) and the countertop MS models that share the same panel.

Jump to a code · 6 on this page

The code as the display prints it; an older spelling sits under it on the card.

Samsung · First

Before you clear it

Samsung prints a letter-and-number code (4C, dC, HE). Older displays printed the same faults with an E (4E, dE, HE) — the pages list both.

1

Samsung microwaves print SE for a stuck key (read as 5E on some displays, -SE- on others) and an E-code with a dash (E-11, E-24) for a sensor fault; the dash is part of the code.

2

The reset: unplug the microwave for one full minute. An over-the-range unit plugs into the outlet in the cabinet above it — open that cabinet door; the cord comes up through the top of the microwave. Plug it back in and set the clock. A code that comes straight back is real.

3

Everything inside the cabinet — the magnetron, the capacitor, the transformer — holds a charge that can stop a heart even with the plug pulled. No microwave repair past the panel, the door and the filters is a home repair.

4

A microwave that counts the timer down in seconds and never heats is in demonstration mode, not broken; the manual's Demo page gives the key sequence that turns it off.

5

The model and serial plate is inside the door on the frame of the cavity — open the door and look at the frame to the left of or below the opening. A Wi-Fi model shows the code in the SmartThings app.

Section 1 of 2

The panel

The vent fan under an over-the-range microwave switching on by itself is not a fault — it runs on its own whenever the cooktop below gets hot and stops when it cools. A display that reads 12:00 or asks for the clock after a storm is a power blip; set it and carry on.

SE#1

Also printed as 5E · -SE-

Check, then call
Code

Key stuck

What it means

The panel sees a key held down for more than a minute — a shorted key on the membrane behind the buttons. On an over-the-range unit the steam off the cooktop below is what wears the membrane.

Check first
  1. Press each key once and feel for one that does not spring back.
  2. Wipe the panel dry — a wet wipe-down, or steam off a pot, holds a key down for a while.
  3. Open and close the door firmly once; a door not fully shut keeps some panels from answering.
  4. Unplug for one minute (the outlet is in the cabinet above).
The fix

A key still stuck after a dry panel and a reset is the control panel — the membrane and its board, replaced as the whole panel assembly from the front. A technician's job, and on a unit under warranty a warranty call.

Stop & call

SE that comes back after the reset is a service call on the control panel. A microwave that starts cooking by itself from a stuck key is unplug now — do not leave it plugged in with a shorted key.

LOCK#2

Also printed as L · Loc

Fix at home
Code

Child lock is on

What it means

Not a fault. The panel is locked so a child cannot start the microwave; the display shows the padlock or an L.

Check first
  1. Press and hold the key marked with the padlock symbol for three seconds (the panel prints which; on most Samsung over-the-range models it is the Stop/Eco key).
The fix

The lock turns off and the panel answers again.

Section 2 of 2

Sensors and heat

Sparks inside the cavity with a burnt smell are arcing — a chipped rack support, a bit of foil, or a wave guide cover (the small card on the inside right wall) burned through. Stop, unplug, and have the cover looked at; a burned cover is a part, and a cavity that keeps arcing is a technician's.

E-11#3

Also printed as E11

Check, then call
Code

Stopped — cavity too hot

What it means

The cavity temperature sensor read a temperature far above cooking range and the control stopped the oven. A microwave run empty, a long run of popcorn bags back to back, or the vents blocked.

Check first
  1. Let it cool for 30 minutes with the door open.
  2. The grease filters under the front edge are clean (they lift out; wash them in the sink), and the top vent above the door is not covered.
  3. Nothing was run with the cavity empty — a microwave with no food in it has nowhere to put its energy and heats itself.
The fix

Cool it, clean the filters and run it normally. An E-11 on a cool oven with food inside is the cavity sensor misreading — a part, a technician's job.

Stop & call

E-11 that returns on a cool oven with food inside is a service call. Stop using the microwave until it is seen; a sensor that misreads can let the oven overheat the other way.

E-12#4

Also printed as E-13 · E12 · E13

Check, then call
Code

Humidity sensor fault

What it means

The humidity sensor that runs Sensor Cook and Sensor Reheat reads open or shorted. Timed cooking does not use it and still works.

Check first
  1. Cook by time (Power Level and a time) instead of a Sensor setting — if timed cooking is fine, only the sensor is down.
  2. Unplug for one minute and try a Sensor Reheat with a cup of water.
The fix

A code that returns on Sensor settings is the humidity sensor — a part on the cavity, a technician's. The microwave cooks on time until it is replaced.

Stop & call

E-12 on every Sensor setting is a service call on the humidity sensor. Timed cooking is safe to use meanwhile.

E-21#5

Also printed as E-22 · E21 · E22

Service call
Code

Cavity temperature sensor

What it means

The thermistor that reads the cavity temperature is open (E-21) or shorted (E-22). The control will not run the oven without it.

Check first
  1. Unplug for one minute, plug in and try a cup of water for one minute.
The fix

A sensor code that returns is the cavity thermistor or its connector — a part inside the cabinet, a technician's. Not a home repair.

Stop & call

E-21 after a reset is a service call. Write the code down with the model and serial from inside the door, and file it.

E-24#6

Also printed as E24

Check, then call
Code

Over-temperature shutdown

What it means

The temperature sensor read the cavity past its limit and the control shut the oven off to protect the magnetron.

Check first
  1. Let it cool for 30 minutes with the door open.
  2. The grease filters are clean and the vent over the door is clear — the magnetron is cooled by the air that moves through them.
  3. Was something cooked far past its time (a potato for 20 minutes, a bag of popcorn twice)? Heat from a burnt load trips it once.
The fix

Cool it and clean the filters. An E-24 that shows on a normal load with the filters clean is the sensor, or a magnetron running hot — inside the cabinet, a technician's.

Stop & call

E-24 that returns on a normal load is a service call. A burnt smell with it is unplug now — the magnetron and its fan are never a home repair.

Warranty · When to file

When it's a warranty call

Every unit leaves with the manufacturer's full factory warranty. The codes below name a part inside the machine — once the checks have ruled out the install, the power and the hoses, call Samsung's line with the model and serial, and text us if you want a hand with the claim.

All units are surplus inventory (open box, cancelled order, customer return, overstock, or minor scratch & dent). Every unit includes the manufacturer's full factory warranty. Please inspect thoroughly in person before purchasing — cosmetic imperfections or missing accessories are possible.

Still stuck?

Text us the model number and what it's doing — we'll point you at the next step.

A fix, a part, or a warranty call — the plate's model and serial plus one line about the symptom is all it takes to tell which.

These pages are educational. Every appliance is a little different — follow the manufacturer's manual and local code, and leave gas, water heater and 240V work to a licensed installer.