Install it right. Use it well. Fix the small stuff yourself.
A working reference from Apex Sales. Every appliance we sell — from refrigerators and ranges to washers, dryers, water heaters, grills, and mowers — plus the install rules, care habits, and troubleshooting steps that save you a service call.
The universal setup checklist
Six things to do on every new appliance, regardless of type. Skipping any of these is what turns a small issue into a warranty denial six months later.
Register the warranty within 30 days
Most manufacturers require registration for the full labor warranty. Keep the model and serial number photo on your phone.
Save the receipt and model plate photo
The model/serial plate is usually inside the door, behind the kick plate, or on the back. You'll need it for every warranty call and every replacement part.
Verify outlets and connections match the appliance
Electric ranges and dryers need 240V/30–50A. Refrigerators need a dedicated grounded outlet. Gas connections need a shutoff you can reach.
Level everything with a bubble level
Unlevel fridges leak; unlevel washers walk; unlevel dishwashers drain wrong. Two minutes at install saves years of grief.
Test every function before your installer leaves
Ice maker, oven bake, dishwasher fill, washer fill/drain, dryer heat, water heater hot water at the tap. If something's wrong, catch it now.
Keep manuals and receipts in one folder
PDF the manual and save it in a cloud folder labeled by appliance. Manufacturer support asks for model, serial, and purchase date on every call.
Refrigerators & Freezers
Refrigerators are the hardest-working appliance in the house — they run 24/7. Small setup and care habits add years to their life.
Get it in right
- Let the unit sit upright for 4–24 hours before plugging in after transport (12 hours minimum for anything hauled on its side). This lets compressor oil settle back into the compressor.
- Plug directly into a dedicated grounded outlet — no extension cords, no power strips. Refrigerators draw a hard startup surge.
- Leave breathing room: 1" on the sides and top, 2" behind. Cabinets that hug the fridge trap condenser heat and shorten compressor life.
- Level side-to-side and tilt back about ¼" so doors self-close. Use the front leveling legs; adjust with a wrench, not a screwdriver.
- For water/ice: use ¼" copper or braided stainless line (not the cheap plastic push-fit line). Install a dedicated shutoff valve you can reach.
- Set fridge to 37°F (2–3°C) and freezer to 0°F (-18°C). Give it 24 hours to stabilize before loading food.
Keep it running
- Vacuum the condenser coils (bottom-front kick plate or rear grille) every 6 months. Dusty coils are the #1 cause of premature compressor failure.
- Wipe door gaskets monthly with warm soapy water; a torn or dirty gasket makes the compressor run constantly. Test with a dollar bill — if it slides out with no drag, replace the gasket.
- Replace the water/ice filter every 6 months (or per manufacturer). An old filter starves the icemaker and stresses the water valve.
- Don't overpack the freezer against the vents, and don't leave the fridge less than ¼ full — thermal mass helps hold temperature during door openings.
- Clean the icemaker bin twice a year — old ice absorbs freezer odors and clumps.
Common issues & fixes
- Fridge is warm but freezer is fine
Almost always a blocked or frozen evaporator fan/damper. Empty the freezer, unplug for 24 hours to fully defrost, plug back in. If it repeats within a month, the defrost heater or thermistor is failing — warranty call.
- Water pooling under the crisper
The defrost drain tube is clogged with ice or debris. Flush with a turkey baster of warm water from the freezer floor drain hole.
- Icemaker not producing (or making hollow cubes)
Check water pressure (needs 20+ psi), replace the filter, and verify the freezer is at 0°F. Small hollow cubes usually mean low water pressure or a partially closed shutoff.
- Loud humming or rattling
Pull the unit forward and check the condenser fan for lint. If the noise is a hard knock from the back, the compressor mounts are worn — warranty call.
- Doors won't seal / condensation on outside
Level the unit, clean the gasket, and check for a bent hinge. Persistent exterior sweating on a stainless door usually means the anti-sweat heater failed — warranty call.
- Compressor is hot to the touch and clicking on/off every few minutes (start relay failure).
- Sealed-system issues: warm on both sides, hissing refrigerant, or oil residue on the coils.
- Any electrical smell, sparking at the outlet, or tripping breaker.
Ranges & Ovens (Gas & Electric)
A range should light instantly, hold temperature within ±10°F, and never smell like raw gas. Anything else means service.
Get it in right
- Electric ranges need a dedicated 240V/40–50A circuit with a matching 3- or 4-prong outlet. Do NOT convert a 4-prong cord to 3-prong on new construction — it violates code.
- Gas ranges require a flexible stainless connector (never black iron directly to the range), a shutoff valve within reach, and a leak test with soapy water on every joint before first use.
- Anti-tip bracket is required by code — mount it into a wall stud, not just drywall. Test by tipping the open oven door: the range must not tip forward.
- Level the cooking surface with a bubble level in both directions so cooking oils don't pool.
- Convert LP/natural gas orifices before first use if switching fuel types. Wrong orifice = yellow flames and CO risk.
- Season a new oven: run at 400°F empty for 30 minutes with the vent hood on to burn off manufacturing oils.
Keep it running
- Wipe spills off the cooktop while it's warm (not hot). Sugar and tomato are the top glass-top killers — they etch the surface if baked in.
- Use a razor-blade cooktop scraper at a 45° angle, never steel wool or abrasive pads.
- Clean burner grates and drip pans monthly; blocked ports cause uneven flames and hot spots.
- Run self-clean only when someone is home, with pets/birds out of the room (fumes are irritating). Remove racks first — self-clean discolors them.
- Test oven calibration once a year with an oven thermometer on the center rack. Adjust the offset in the settings menu if off by more than 15°F.
Common issues & fixes
- Gas burner clicks but won't light
Cap is misaligned or wet. Remove, dry, and reseat. If clicking continues after lighting, the spark module is stuck — clean around the igniter with a dry toothbrush.
- Electric coil or radiant element not heating
Swap with a matching element from another burner. If the new position heats, the element is bad ($30–60 part). If neither heats, it's the infinite switch or control board.
- Oven bakes unevenly or takes too long to preheat
The bake element or convection fan is failing. Look through the door on preheat — the bottom element should glow bright orange end-to-end within 60 seconds.
- Door won't unlock after self-clean
Wait 60 minutes for it to cool completely — the door lock is a bi-metal switch. Cutting power for 5 minutes usually resets a stuck lock motor.
- F-code error on the display
Most F-codes are the oven temperature sensor (a 2-wire probe in the back wall). Cheap DIY fix if you're comfortable — otherwise a quick warranty call.
- Any smell of raw gas that doesn't clear after re-lighting — shut off the gas valve and call the gas company or a certified tech.
- Yellow or orange gas flames (should be blue with a small yellow tip) — indicates incomplete combustion and CO risk.
- Sparking, arcing, or a burning-plastic smell from the control panel.
Dishwashers
A dishwasher that isn't cleaning is usually starving for hot water, blocked at the filter, or overloaded — not broken.
Get it in right
- Hot water supply must be ≥120°F at the tap closest to the dishwasher. Run the sink hot for 30 seconds before starting the cycle.
- Use the high-loop or air gap on the drain hose — it prevents dirty sink water from siphoning back into the tub. Most local codes require it.
- Anchor the unit to the countertop OR the side cabinets (granite counters use side brackets). An unanchored dishwasher tips forward when the door opens with a loaded rack.
- Level side-to-side and front-to-back so the door closes without lifting.
- Insulate the tub sides if installed next to a fridge — the heat exchange affects both units.
Keep it running
- Clean the filter monthly. Twist counterclockwise, rinse under hot water, scrub with an old toothbrush. This alone fixes 70% of "not cleaning" complaints.
- Run an empty hot cycle with a cup of white vinegar on the top rack once a month to descale the spray arms.
- Use rinse aid every load — it's not optional on modern condensation-dry dishwashers. Without it, plastics stay wet and glassware spots.
- Load with all dirty surfaces facing the center spray tower. Don't pre-rinse (modern detergent needs food particles to activate its enzymes).
- Leave the door cracked open for an hour after each cycle to prevent mildew on the gasket.
Common issues & fixes
- Dishes come out gritty or filmy
Filter is clogged, spray arms are blocked, or water is too cold. Pull the lower spray arm, hold under the faucet, and clear each nozzle with a toothpick.
- Standing water in the bottom
Check the drain hose for kinks and clean the sink's garbage disposal knockout plug (a common miss on new installs — the disposal ships with it in place).
- Won't start / cycle keeps resetting
Door isn't fully latching. Push firmly until you hear the click, then test the latch by pulling gently — it should hold. If good, the door switch may need replacement.
- Leaking from the front of the door
Overloaded rinse aid, cracked door gasket, or too much sudsing detergent. Never use hand dish soap.
- Loud grinding during drain
Something (glass shard, cherry pit, wire tie) is in the sump. Remove the filter and pull anything loose with needle-nose pliers.
- Water under the unit with no visible source (usually a cracked sump — warranty call).
- Control panel unresponsive or lights cycling on their own.
- Persistent leak from the water inlet valve or the pump housing.
Washers (Top Load & Front Load)
The two things that kill washers early: bad leveling and too much detergent. Both are free to fix.
Get it in right
- Remove the shipping bolts before first use (front loaders). Running with them in place destroys the suspension in one cycle — save the bolts, you'll need them again if you ever move.
- Use hoses with mesh burst-proof reinforcement or braided stainless. Rubber hoses fail every 5–7 years — mark the date on the hose with a Sharpie.
- Install a hammer arrestor on hot and cold if you hear a bang when the water valve closes.
- Level with a bubble level on the tub in both directions. Adjust all four feet so the unit does NOT rock at all. Rocking = walking during spin.
- Standpipe drain must be 30–36" high with an air gap around the drain hose (don't push the hose to the bottom of the pipe — you'll siphon).
Keep it running
- Use HE (high-efficiency) detergent only, 1–2 tablespoons per load. Overdosing is the #1 cause of "leaves residue" and "smells musty" complaints. Pods count as one dose.
- Leave the door open between loads on a front loader. Wipe the rubber boot dry weekly.
- Run a cleaning cycle (Affresh or 1 cup of bleach on hot) monthly on front loaders, every 2–3 months on top loaders.
- Empty the front-load filter/pump trap quarterly — it's behind the small door at the front-bottom. You'll be shocked what's in there.
- Don't overload. The drum should be no more than ¾ full when dry — clothes need room to tumble.
Common issues & fixes
- Musty smell
Cut detergent in half, run a cleaning cycle, clean the gasket and dispenser drawer, leave the door open. Smell should be gone in 2–3 weeks.
- Washer walks during spin
Re-level, tighten the leveling lock nuts, and redistribute the load. If it still walks, one shock absorber is broken.
- Won't drain or spin
Something is caught in the pump filter — coin, sock, underwire. Front loaders: open the bottom panel and clean the trap. Top loaders: check the drain hose for kinks.
- Fills too slowly or not at all
Shut both supply valves off, unscrew the hoses, and clean the mesh screens on the washer's inlet ports.
- Clothes come out too wet
Overloaded, unbalanced, or the drain hose is too high. Redistribute and check that the standpipe is under 96".
- Bearing whine (loud roar on spin that grows over weeks) — bearing replacement is usually not economical on machines over 5 years old.
- Leak from underneath the tub (not the hoses) — likely the outer tub seal.
- Persistent error codes after unplugging the unit for 5 minutes to reset.
Dryers (Electric & Gas)
Nearly every dryer complaint — takes too long, overheats, won't heat — comes down to airflow. Clean the vent every year.
Get it in right
- Use rigid or semi-rigid metal duct only. NEVER white vinyl or foil flex — it's a fire hazard and blocks airflow. Total run should be under 25 feet with two 90° elbows subtracting 5 feet each.
- Electric: dedicated 240V/30A outlet, 4-prong on new installs.
- Gas: flexible stainless connector, shutoff valve within reach, soap-test all joints.
- Vent must terminate outside — never into a crawlspace, attic, or garage. Louvered hood, no screen (screens clog with lint).
- Level the unit; unlevel dryers wear the drum rollers unevenly.
Keep it running
- Clean the lint screen every load. Every load. Also rinse it with soap and water every 3 months — dryer sheets leave a film that blocks airflow you can't see.
- Have the vent hose and outside hood professionally cleaned annually (or DIY with a brush kit). This is a fire-safety item — the US fire service tracks ~15,000 dryer fires per year, most from lint.
- Empty the moisture sensor bars (two metal strips inside the drum) every few months with a cotton ball and rubbing alcohol. Softener film ruins auto-dry accuracy.
- Don't dry rubber-backed rugs, foam pillows, or anything with residual oil — both are ignition risks.
- Once a year, pop the front panel and vacuum lint out of the cabinet interior around the heater box.
Common issues & fixes
- Takes 2+ cycles to dry a load
Blocked vent, period. Disconnect from the wall and run one cycle venting into the room — if it dries fast, your vent needs cleaning.
- Runs but doesn't heat (electric)
One leg of the 240V supply is out — a blown breaker or one failed heating element coil. Reset the breaker fully (off then on). If it repeats, the thermal fuse popped from an airflow problem.
- Runs but doesn't heat (gas)
Igniter or gas valve coil. Watch through the front vent on start-up — the igniter should glow orange for 15–20 seconds before gas ignites. No glow = igniter.
- Loud thumping or squealing
Drum rollers, idler pulley, or a worn belt. Roll the drum by hand with the belt off — it should spin freely and silently.
- Clothes come out with black marks
A cracked drum baffle or worn drum seal. Both are inexpensive parts.
- Any burning smell during operation — stop immediately, unplug/shut gas, and call.
- Repeated thermal-fuse failures after you've cleaned the vent (indicates a bad thermostat or blocked internal duct).
- Gas smell that persists after re-lighting.
Microwaves & Over-the-Range Units
Countertop micros are largely disposable, but OTR units are worth caring for — the exhaust fan is protecting your cooktop.
Get it in right
- OTR units need 30" clearance above the cooktop for gas (or per the manual for electric). Below 30" voids warranty and creates a burn hazard.
- Vent through the top (into a duct) or out the back — reconfigure the fan and damper before hanging. Recirculating is the last resort; use a fresh charcoal filter.
- Support the weight during installation with a helper or a jack — most OTRs are 60–90 lbs and the mounting plate alone won't hold them steady.
- Countertop: leave 3" clearance on the sides and top for cooling.
- Plug into a grounded outlet, not a GFCI (nuisance trips are common).
Keep it running
- Wipe the interior weekly — food splatter absorbs microwave energy and creates hot spots that damage the wall coating over time.
- Clean the charcoal filter (recirculating installs) or grease filter (vented) every 3 months. Grease filters go in the dishwasher.
- Replace the charcoal filter every 6 months if you use the recirculating mode.
- Never run empty — microwaves need something to absorb the energy or the magnetron will overheat.
- Use the exhaust fan every time you cook on the range below, even for low-heat cooking. It protects the microwave's electronics from grease.
Common issues & fixes
- Runs but doesn't heat
Magnetron or high-voltage diode. Both are inside a sealed high-voltage cage — do NOT open. Warranty call.
- Sparks or arcing inside
Chipped waveguide cover (the mica panel on the sidewall) or metal in the cavity. Replace the cover ($5 part) or remove the metal.
- Turntable won't rotate
Coupler on the underside of the plate is worn or the drive motor failed. Coupler is a $10 fix.
- Buttons unresponsive
Membrane keypad wear. Unplug for 5 minutes to reset. If it persists, the touch panel needs replacement.
- Loud humming with no cooking
Magnetron is failing — safety-shuts on thermal switch. Warranty call.
- Any spark inside a sealed compartment (not the cooking cavity).
- Buzz or shock when touching the case.
- Door won't close flush or the interlock switch trips randomly — safety hazard, microwaves can leak radiation with a bad door.
Water Heaters (Tank & Tankless)
The single biggest lifespan factor is annual sediment flushing. A flushed heater lasts 12–15 years; a neglected one dies in 6–8.
Get it in right
- Set the thermostat to 120°F. Above 140°F risks scalding (a child's skin burns in under 1 second at 140°F).
- Install a full-port shutoff on the cold-inlet AND unions on both hot and cold so you can swap the unit without cutting pipe.
- T&P (temperature/pressure) relief valve MUST drain to a visible spot within 6" of the floor — never plug it, never point it up.
- Gas units need proper venting (B-vent for atmospheric, PVC for power-vent). Never share a vent with another appliance without a licensed installer sizing it.
- Electric: dedicated 240V/30A circuit for a standard tank; tankless electric can pull 100–150A — verify your panel can handle it before purchase.
- Add an expansion tank if your home has a backflow preventer or PRV (most homes built after ~2005). It's code, and it prevents T&P valve dripping.
Keep it running
- Flush the tank annually: shut off gas/power, connect a hose to the drain valve, open a hot faucet upstairs, drain until the water runs clear. Takes 20 minutes and doubles the tank's life.
- Test the T&P valve annually — lift the lever, water should whoosh out into the drain and stop when released. If it drips continuously afterward, replace it.
- Inspect the anode rod every 3–4 years. If it's chewed down to the core wire, replace it ($30). A new anode can add 5+ years to a tank.
- Tankless: descale with vinegar or a proper descaler yearly if you have hard water. Skipping this is why tankless units fail in 6 years instead of 20.
- Insulate the first 6 feet of hot and cold pipe leaving the tank — cuts standby loss significantly.
Common issues & fixes
- Not enough hot water
Sediment buildup (flush the tank), failed lower element on an electric unit, or the dip tube broke and cold water is short-circuiting to the hot outlet.
- Water is rusty or smells like rotten eggs
Anode rod is spent or reacting with sulfur in the water. Swap to an aluminum-zinc anode for the sulfur smell.
- Popping or rumbling noise
Sediment boiling on the bottom of the tank. Flush it. If ignored, the tank floor will eventually rupture.
- Pilot won't stay lit (older gas units)
Thermocouple failure ($15 part) or a dirty pilot orifice. On newer units with electronic ignition, clean the flame-rod sensor.
- Water leaking from the top
Usually a loose inlet fitting or T&P valve — tighten first. Leaking from the bottom means the tank is done. Replace, don't repair.
- Any water on the floor from the tank body (the inner liner has rusted through — the tank cannot be fixed).
- Gas smell or yellow flames.
- Discolored or scorched draft hood on gas units (backdraft = CO risk).
Grills (Gas & Pellet)
Grill lifespan comes down to two things: cover it when it's cool, and burn off grease before it caramelizes into rust-magnet residue.
Get it in right
- Keep gas grills at least 10 feet from the house, deck rail, or any combustible overhang. Do NOT operate under a covered patio unless it's rated for it.
- Leak-test all propane connections with soapy water on first setup and after any tank swap. Bubbles = leak. Never test with a flame.
- Season cast iron or coated steel grates with a light coat of high-smoke-point oil (grapeseed, avocado) before first use.
- Pellet grills: level the unit and run a 20-minute burn-in per the manual to cure the paint and prime the auger.
- Store propane tanks outdoors, upright, in shade. Never in a garage or basement.
Keep it running
- Brush the grates while they're hot after every cook. Use a bristle-free scraper — wire bristles can shed into food and cause injuries.
- Empty the grease tray monthly during grilling season. A full tray is the #1 cause of grill fires.
- Deep-clean twice a season: pull out grates, flavorizer bars, and heat tents; scrape carbon; vacuum the firebox.
- Pellet grills: vacuum the firepot and burn chamber every 3–5 cooks. Ash buildup blocks airflow and causes temp swings.
- Store pellets in a sealed bucket — humidity swells them and they'll jam the auger.
- Cover the grill when it's cool (never hot — you'll melt the cover). UV and rain are what turn a 15-year grill into a 5-year grill.
Common issues & fixes
- Won't reach high heat
Regulator is in bypass mode. Turn all burners OFF, close the tank valve, disconnect, wait 30 seconds, reconnect slowly, then open the tank valve slowly (5-second turn) before lighting.
- Uneven or yellow flames
Spiders in the burner venturis (very common). Pull each burner, run a pipe cleaner through the tube, and reinstall.
- Igniter clicks but won't spark
Replace the AA/9V battery, clean the electrode tip with fine sandpaper, and verify the ground wire is attached.
- Pellet grill temp swings 50°F+
Clean the firepot fully, check the RTD probe for grease coating, and verify the induction fan spins freely.
- Rusty grates
For cast iron: scrub with steel wool, dry over a burner, re-season with oil. Coated grates: replace once the coating flakes — bare steel rusts fast.
- Any gas smell that persists after the leak test.
- Flames coming out of the control panel or hose.
- Pellet grill igniter that never heats (element burned out) — under warranty, get it replaced.
Lawn Mowers & Outdoor Power
Fuel is the #1 mower killer. Ethanol gas goes bad in 30 days and gums carburetors. Treat every tank, or drain at end of season.
Get it in right
- Fill oil to the FULL mark (not over) with the correct grade — SAE 30 for most air-cooled small engines above 40°F, 5W-30 synthetic below.
- Add fresh 87-octane gas mixed with fuel stabilizer (Sta-Bil, Star Tron) at every fill-up. Don't use E15 or higher.
- Read the deck-height chart in the manual and set to 3–3.5" for most turf grasses. Scalping below 2" invites weeds.
- Battery mowers: charge fully before first use, and store the battery indoors between 40–80°F.
- Riding mowers: check tire pressure (usually 10–14 psi) — a low tire pulls the deck out of level and produces a striped cut.
Keep it running
- Sharpen the blade twice per season (or every 20–25 hours). A dull blade tears grass, browning the tips and stressing the turf.
- Change oil after the first 5 hours of a new engine, then every 25–50 hours.
- Replace the air filter yearly (paper) or clean it (foam, with soap and a light oil coat).
- Replace the spark plug annually — it costs $3 and doubles as a diagnostic (color of the tip tells you if the mixture is right).
- Wash the underside of the deck after each mow. Wet clippings hold moisture against the steel and rot it out from below.
- End of season: run the tank dry OR fill it and add stabilizer. Halfway is the worst option — condensation and varnish.
Common issues & fixes
- Won't start after winter
99% carburetor. Spray carb cleaner into the intake, try once. If it starts and dies, the carb is gummed — pull the bowl and clean, or replace with an aftermarket carb ($20–30).
- Starts, runs, then dies after 30 seconds
Fuel starvation. Blocked fuel filter, clogged tank vent, or dirty carb pilot jet.
- Smokes on startup
White smoke = overfilled oil or oil in the cylinder from tipping the mower the wrong way. Black smoke = choke stuck or air filter clogged. Blue smoke = worn rings (major service).
- Uneven cut / stripes
Dull or bent blade, unlevel deck, or low tire on a rider. Check the blade for a bend by rotating it 180° in the spindle.
- Self-propel not pulling
Drive belt slipped off or the drive cable stretched. Both are common wear items with 15-minute fixes.
- Any grinding from the transmission on a rider.
- Sudden loss of oil pressure (idiot light on) — shut off immediately.
- Battery mower that stops mid-cut with an overheat error more than once — internal controller likely bad, use warranty.
When it's not a DIY moment
Most appliance issues are safe to poke at. These aren't. If any of these show up, stop, secure the appliance, and call — the manufacturer's warranty line first, then us if you need a hand.
Gas smell
Shut the appliance's shutoff valve if you can reach it safely, open windows, leave the building, and call the gas utility from outside — not your phone from inside. Don't flip switches or light anything.
Burning-plastic smell or arcing
Kill power at the breaker (not just the appliance switch). Do not use the appliance again until it's inspected. This is warranty-covered on new units.
Active water leak
Close the shutoff valve at the appliance (washer supply, dishwasher supply under the sink, fridge water line, water-heater cold inlet). Then unplug. Mop before diagnosing.
Water heater T&P dripping
Constant dripping means excess pressure in the tank. Turn heat down to 120°F, check for a missing expansion tank, and call a plumber — never plug the T&P valve.
Dryer that runs hotter than usual
Stop and clean the full vent path. Lint fires start at the wall duct or the outside hood, not the machine.
The questions we get most often
How long should each major appliance last?
Typical lifespans with reasonable care: refrigerator 12–15 years, gas range 15+, electric range 13–15, dishwasher 9–12, washer 10–13, dryer 12–14, water heater 10–15 tank / 15–20 tankless, OTR microwave 8–10, grill 10–15 with a cover, mower 8–12. Skipping maintenance can cut those numbers in half.
Do I need a surge protector on my appliances?
Yes, especially for anything with a control board — that's every modern refrigerator, range, dishwasher, washer, and dryer. A single lightning-induced surge can fry a $400 control board. Whole-home surge protection at the panel is the best value; individual appliance surge protectors are a backup.
How often should I actually clean the refrigerator coils?
Twice a year if you have pets, once a year without. It's the single biggest thing you can do to extend refrigerator life. A dusty coil makes the compressor run 30–50% longer per cycle.
Is it worth repairing an older appliance?
The rule of thumb: if the repair costs more than 50% of the replacement price and the unit is past 60% of its expected life, replace. If the unit is under 5 years old and out of warranty, almost always repair. Warranty parts are usually free — always call first before paying a tech.
What's the number one thing that voids warranty?
Installation that doesn't meet the manual's clearance, electrical, gas, water, or venting requirements. Second is running the appliance in commercial use in a residential product. Always keep photos of your install.
Can I move a fridge on its side?
If you must, lay it on the side opposite the compressor (usually driver side facing forward), keep the trip short, and let it stand upright 24 hours before plugging in. Better: transport upright with straps.
How do I know if it's a warranty issue or a maintenance issue?
Maintenance issues usually build up over months (slow drain, weak spray, uneven heat). Warranty issues tend to happen suddenly (no power, error code, hard leak, burning smell). When in doubt, call the manufacturer's warranty line — they'll walk through it with you.
We'll help you figure out whether it's a fix, a warranty call, or a replacement.
Text us your model number and a short description of what's happening — we'll point you at the right service channel and the right next step. That's what we're here for.
This guide is educational. Every appliance is a little different — always follow the manufacturer's manual and local code. When in doubt, call a licensed installer for gas, water heater, and 240V work.