Whirlpool dishwasher error codes: most of them are the water coming in, going out, or the door.

The control opened the fill valve and the water never reached the level it expects. The water is not getting to the dishwasher.

1. The shutoff valve under the sink that feeds the dishwasher is fully open.
2. The supply line is not kinked where it bends behind the cabinet.
3. Hot water runs at the kitchen tap with normal pressure.
4. The float at the bottom front of the tub (the small dome or cup) moves freely up and down and nothing is wedged under it.

Open the valve, clear the line, free the float, then reset and run a Rinse cycle. If water reaches the dishwasher and nothing comes in, the fill valve is the part — a technician's job, and a warranty call on a machine under warranty.

The control found an electrical fault in the fill valve's circuit — the valve's coil or its wiring, not the water supply.

1. Switch the breaker off for one minute and run a Rinse cycle.

F6E2 that returns is the fill valve or its harness — a part, a technician's job.

The wash pump found foam or air instead of water — too much or the wrong detergent, or a low fill.

1. The detergent is a dishwasher detergent (never dish soap) and the dose is right for the hardness of the water; a pre-wash with hand soap on the dishes makes the same foam.
2. Run a Rinse cycle with nothing added to clear the foam.
3. The fill checks above — a half fill leaves the pump sucking air.

Clear the foam and correct the detergent. F6E3 with the right detergent and a full fill is the pump or its sensor — a service call.

The float at the bottom of the tub rose to its switch, so the control stopped the fill. Either the valve kept filling or water came in that was not asked for.

1. Press Cancel/Drain and let it pump out, then look at the float — it is free and nothing is holding it up.
2. Shut the supply valve under the sink. If the tub fills again with the valve closed, water is coming back through the drain hose from the disposer or the sink — the hose needs its high loop under the counter.
3. If the tub fills only with the supply open and no cycle running, the fill valve is not closing.

Free the float, add the high loop. A fill valve that will not shut is a part — leave the supply valve off until it is replaced.

The small meter that counts the water coming in reported nothing while the valve was open.

1. The fill checks under F6E1 — no water at all looks the same to the meter.
2. Switch the breaker off for one minute and run a Rinse cycle.

Water reaching the dishwasher and F6E7 anyway is the flow meter — a part, a technician's job.

The drain pump ran and the water did not leave the tub in the time the control allows.

1. The filter in the bottom of the tub (twist the round cap out, lift the screen) is clean — a glass shard or a label stops the pump.
2. The drain hose has a high loop under the counter and is not kinked behind the cabinet.
3. A new disposer: the knockout plug in its dishwasher inlet was punched out at the install. A disposer that has never taken dishwasher water is the usual F8E1 on a new install.
4. The sink drains freely; a clogged sink backs up into the dishwasher.

Clean the filter, fix the hose, punch the plug, then press Cancel/Drain. A pump that hums and moves nothing with a clean filter is the drain pump — a part, a technician's job.

The control found an electrical fault in the drain pump's circuit.

1. Switch the breaker off for one minute and press Cancel/Drain.

F8E2 that returns is the drain pump or its harness — a part, a technician's job.

The control turned the heater on and the water temperature never rose. The dishes come out wet and cold.

1. Run the kitchen tap hot before starting — the dishwasher starts from the water it gets.
2. Switch the breaker off for one minute and run a Normal cycle with Heated Dry on.

F7E1 that returns is the heating element or its relay on the control — a part, a technician's job.

The control found the heater's relay closed when it should be open, so the heater can run when it should not.

1. Switch the dishwasher's breaker off and leave it off.

A heater that cannot be switched off is the control board — a part, a technician's job. Leave the breaker off until it is replaced.

The main control and the wash pump motor lost communication, or the motor did not run when it was driven.

1. The filter in the bottom of the tub is clean and the spray arms turn freely by hand.
2. Switch the breaker off for five full minutes and run a Rinse cycle.

F4E3 that returns with a clean filter is the wash pump motor or its board — a service call.

The diverter that sends water to the upper or the lower spray arm did not reach the position the control asked for.

1. The filter is clean and nothing is caught under the lower spray arm.
2. Switch the breaker off for one minute and run a Rinse cycle.

F9E1 that returns is the diverter motor under the sump — a part, a technician's job.

The diverter motor's relay is closed when it should be open.

1. Switch the breaker off for one minute and run a Rinse cycle.

F9E2 that returns is the control board — a part, a technician's job.

The control found one of its own relays stuck closed.

1. Switch the breaker off for five full minutes and try a cycle.

F1E1 that returns is the main control board — a part, a technician's job.