Error codes · Frigidaire · Dryers

Frigidaire dryer error codes: most are heat that never came, or air that could not get out.

Frigidaire, Frigidaire Gallery and Frigidaire Professional are one maker, and their dryers keep a short list of E codes — the thermistor, the heat, a stuck key, the board. A dryer with a display prints the code; the ones with lights only show it in the diagnostic. Most of what a dryer does wrong is a vent, and a vent is never a code on these — it shows as long dry times first. Find the code, work the checks, and clear it with the reset below.

Covers: 2015-and-newer electric and gas dryers (FFSE5115, FFSG5115, FFRE4120, FFRG4120, the Gallery FGSE/FGSG) and the dryer side of the FFLE3900, FFLG3900, FLCE7522 and FLCG7522 laundry centers.

Jump to a code · 7 on this page

The code as the display prints it; an older spelling sits under it on the card.

Frigidaire · First

Before you clear it

Frigidaire prints E codes (E10, E21, E41) and F codes on ranges (F10, F30). The code history is read from the control's own diagnostic mode.

1

A dryer with a time display prints the code (E24, E4A, E68). A dryer with lights only shows a code in its diagnostic: the four cycle lights (Drying, Cool Down, Wrinkle Rid, Clean Lint Filter) flash the first digit and the Start light flashes the second — 10 flashes is the letter A, 11 is B, 12 is C.

2

The reset: unplug the dryer — or switch both of its breakers off on an electric model — for five full minutes, plug it back in and start a Timed Dry. A code that comes straight back is real.

3

Before any code, the vent: an electric dryer that heats and takes two cycles is a vent, not a part. Pull the hose off the back and run a Timed Dry for five minutes — if it dries right with the hose off, clean the duct to the outside.

4

An electric dryer runs on two 120V legs; one tripped breaker leaves the drum turning with no heat and no code. Check both breakers before anything else.

5

The model and serial plate is inside the door opening on a dryer and inside the dryer door on a laundry center. Every warranty call starts with those two numbers.

Section 1 of 2

Heat and drying time

E4A#1
Check, then call
Code

Dry time ran out

What it means

The cycle ran to its maximum time and the load never read dry. Air that cannot get out, a heater that is not heating, or a moisture sensor coated in film.

Check first
  1. The lint screen is clean and the screen slot under it is clear — reach in with a vacuum crevice tool.
  2. The vent hose behind the dryer is not crushed, and the flap at the outside wall opens when the dryer runs.
  3. An electric model: both breakers are on. A gas model: the gas valve behind the dryer is open and the other gas appliances light.
  4. The two metal moisture-sensor bars inside the drum opening are wiped with a little rubbing alcohol — dryer-sheet film makes them read dry when the load is not.
The fix

Clean the lint path and the vent and run a Timed Dry; the code clears when a load finishes on time. Good airflow with no heat at all is the heating element or the gas igniter — a part, and on a machine under warranty a warranty call.

Stop & call

A dryer that blows cold with the vent clear and both breakers on has a heating element, a thermal cutoff or an igniter that has failed — a technician's part.

E5B#2
Check, then call
Code

No heat

What it means

The control called for heat and the temperature never rose. The dryer kept tumbling cold.

Check first
  1. Electric: both breakers for the dryer are on — a dryer with one leg dead tumbles with no heat.
  2. Gas: the gas valve behind the dryer is open.
  3. The vent is clear; a dryer whose high-limit has tripped from a blocked vent heats, stops heating, and prints this.
The fix

Fix the supply or clear the vent and run a Timed Dry. With the supply good and the vent clear, the heating element, the thermal cutoff, the gas valve coils or the igniter is the part — a technician's job.

Stop & call

No heat with both breakers on and the gas open is a part inside the dryer. On a machine under warranty this is a warranty service call; a gas smell at any point is stop, shut the valve and call.

E8C#3
Check, then call
Code

Overheat trips

What it means

The high-limit thermostat has been tripping — the dryer got hotter inside than it should, again and again.

Check first
  1. The lint screen and its slot are clean.
  2. The vent hose and the duct to the outside are clear — a blocked vent is the one thing that makes a dryer run hot.
  3. The dryer is not pushed so hard against the wall that the vent hose is crushed flat.
The fix

Clear the vent and the code stops. A dryer with a clear vent that still overheats has a heater relay stuck on the control board — a technician's part.

Stop & call

Overheating with a clear vent is a relay that will not open. Stop using the dryer until it is looked at; on a machine under warranty this is a warranty service call.

E24#4

Also printed as E25

Service call
Code

Temperature sensor

What it means

The thermistor that reads the air temperature in the dryer is open (E24) or shorted (E25). The control will not heat without a reading it trusts.

Check first
  1. Unplug the dryer for five minutes, plug it in and start a Timed Dry.
The fix

A thermistor code that returns is the sensor or its wiring — a part behind the drum, a technician's job.

Stop & call

E24 or E25 after a reset is a service call. Note which of the two the display printed; on a machine under warranty it is a warranty service call.

Section 2 of 2

The panel and the board

E68#5
Fix at home
Code

Button stuck

What it means

The control sees a key held down. The dryer will not take a new cycle while a key reads as pressed.

Check first
  1. Press each button once; feel for one that does not spring back.
  2. Wipe the panel dry — a wet or sticky membrane holds a key down.
  3. Unplug the dryer for five minutes.
The fix

A key that stays stuck after cleaning is the panel or the control board — a part.

E10#6

Also printed as E11 · E12

Service call
Code

Board communication

What it means

The control board lost touch with itself or the panel. The display may light and take no button.

Check first
  1. Unplug the dryer for five full minutes, plug it in and try a cycle.
The fix

A communication code that comes back is the electronic control board — a technician's part.

Stop & call

E10, E11 or E12 after a five-minute unplug is a service call. Nothing to check at home; on a machine under warranty it is a warranty service call.

EAF#7
Service call
Code

Control board failure

What it means

The control board failed its own self-check.

Check first
  1. Unplug the dryer for five full minutes, plug it in and start a Timed Dry.
The fix

EAF that returns is the electronic control board — a part, a technician's job.

Stop & call

EAF after a reset is a service call. Write the code down with the model and serial; on a machine under warranty it is a warranty service call.

Warranty · When to file

When it's a warranty call

Every unit leaves with the manufacturer's full factory warranty. The codes below name a part inside the machine — once the checks have ruled out the install, the power and the hoses, call Frigidaire's line with the model and serial, and text us if you want a hand with the claim.

All units are surplus inventory (open box, cancelled order, customer return, overstock, or minor scratch & dent). Every unit includes the manufacturer's full factory warranty. Please inspect thoroughly in person before purchasing — cosmetic imperfections or missing accessories are possible.

Still stuck?

Text us the model number and what it's doing — we'll point you at the next step.

A fix, a part, or a warranty call — the plate's model and serial plus one line about the symptom is all it takes to tell which.

These pages are educational. Every appliance is a little different — follow the manufacturer's manual and local code, and leave gas, water heater and 240V work to a licensed installer.