Error codes · Frigidaire · Cooktops

Frigidaire cooktop error codes: a pan the glass could not sense, a hot surface, or the lock.

Frigidaire, Frigidaire Gallery and Frigidaire Professional cooktops keep their messages to a letter or two: an induction top flashes the setting when it cannot sense the pan, shows E when a pan boiled dry or the controls got wet, L when it is locked and H while a zone is still hot; an electric top with touch controls prints the two F codes it shares with the ranges. A gas cooktop has no display at all — its faults are the burner and the igniter, on the troubleshooting page. Find the letter below; nearly all of them clear at home.

Covers: 2015-and-newer electric (FFEC3025, FFEC3625, FGEC3068), induction (FFIC3026, FGIC3066, FGIC3067, FPIC3077, FPIC3677) and gas (FFGC3026, FGGC3047, FPGC3077) cooktops.

Jump to a code · 5 on this page

The code as the display prints it; an older spelling sits under it on the card.

Frigidaire · First

Before you clear it

Frigidaire prints E codes (E10, E21, E41) and F codes on ranges (F10, F30). The code history is read from the control's own diagnostic mode.

1

An induction cooktop talks through the zone indicators: a flashing setting is pan sensing, E is an error, L is the lock, H is a hot surface, and a dash (–) means turn the cooktop off and on. An electric cooktop with touch controls prints F codes (F3, F20, F40, F41) like the ranges.

2

The reset: press the Power key off, then switch the cooktop's breaker off for one minute and back on. A code that comes straight back is real.

3

Water, oil or a spill on the control area is the usual reason a cooktop acts up — wipe the glass over the keys dry before anything else. A key held more than 10 seconds (a spoon, a towel, a pet) sounds 5 tones and shuts the cooktop off.

4

Induction needs a magnetic pan: a fridge magnet sticks to the bottom of the pan that works. Aluminum, copper and some stainless never register.

5

The model and serial plate is on the underside of the cooktop, read from inside the cabinet below, or on a label at the back edge of the glass. Every warranty call starts with those two numbers.

Section 1 of 2

Induction cooktops

E#1
Check, then call
Code

Element error

What it means

A zone stopped because something was wrong under it — a pan that boiled dry and overheated the glass, water or oil on the controls, or an electronics fault.

Check first
  1. Take the pan off and turn the cooktop off. Wait 30 seconds and turn it back on; if the pan was the problem, E is gone.
  2. Wipe the control area dry and clean — a wet or greasy control panel throws the same letter.
  3. Switch the breaker off for one minute and back on.
The fix

A dry, clean cooktop that prints E again on a zone with a good pan has a fault in that zone's generator or the control — a technician's part.

Stop & call

E that comes back after the reset with a clean, dry glass is a service call. On a machine under warranty it is a warranty service call; a burnt smell from under the glass is breaker off and call.

L#2
Fix at home
Code

Cooktop locked

What it means

Not a fault. The child lock is on — every zone indicator shows L and the keys do nothing but the zone On/Off.

Check first
  1. Press the Power key on, then press and hold the Lock key for 4 seconds until the L goes out. Hold it only while the cooktop is on.
The fix

The cooktop takes settings again. On a cooktop locked for child safety the lock comes back each time it is turned off unless it is fully unlocked the same way.

H#3

Also printed as HS

Fix at home
Code

Hot surface

What it means

Not a fault. The zone is off and the glass over it is still hot enough to burn; the H stays until it has cooled.

Check first
  1. Leave it. The H goes out by itself once the glass is below the hot mark; on a radiant electric top the Hot Surface light does the same.
The fix

Nothing to fix. A zone that ran a long time and never showed H, or a Hot light that never comes on after heavy use, is a sensor fault — a technician's look.

Section 2 of 2

Electric cooktops with touch controls

F20#4

Also printed as F3

Service call
Code

Communication error

What it means

The touch control and the power board under the glass lost their link to each other.

Check first
  1. Switch the cooktop's breaker off for 30 seconds and back on; give the control a minute to wake.
The fix

F3 or F20 that returns is one of the boards or the harness between them — a technician's part.

Stop & call

A communication code after a reset is a service call. On a machine under warranty it is a warranty service call; a cooktop installed inside the last month goes back to its installer first.

F40#5

Also printed as F41

Check, then call
Code

Cooktop lock-out

What it means

The control locked itself out — a key held down, a spill across the touch area, or a stuck key on the board.

Check first
  1. Wipe the glass over the controls dry; move pans, towels and cutting boards off the control area.
  2. Switch the breaker off for 30 seconds and back on.
The fix

A clean, dry control that locks out again is the touch control board — a technician's part.

Stop & call

F40 or F41 that comes back after the reset is a service call. On a machine under warranty it is a warranty service call.

Warranty · When to file

When it's a warranty call

Every unit leaves with the manufacturer's full factory warranty. The codes below name a part inside the machine — once the checks have ruled out the install, the power and the hoses, call Frigidaire's line with the model and serial, and text us if you want a hand with the claim.

All units are surplus inventory (open box, cancelled order, customer return, overstock, or minor scratch & dent). Every unit includes the manufacturer's full factory warranty. Please inspect thoroughly in person before purchasing — cosmetic imperfections or missing accessories are possible.

Still stuck?

Text us the model number and what it's doing — we'll point you at the next step.

A fix, a part, or a warranty call — the plate's model and serial plus one line about the symptom is all it takes to tell which.

These pages are educational. Every appliance is a little different — follow the manufacturer's manual and local code, and leave gas, water heater and 240V work to a licensed installer.