Error codes · LG · Dryers

LG dryer error codes: nine times in ten it is the vent.

An LG dryer prints few codes, and the one everybody sees — d80, d90, d95 — is the dryer measuring its own exhaust and finding the vent blocked. The rest are the door, a sensor, or a 240V supply with one leg missing. Find the code, take the checks in order, and clear it with the reset in the strip above.

Covers: 2015-and-newer electric and gas dryers (DLE and DLG, DLEX and DLGX, the Dual Inverter heat-pump models) and the dryer half of the WashTower.

LG · First

Before you clear it

LG prints two-letter codes (OE, IE, dE, UE). A lower-case letter is the display's own shape, not a different code.

1

Flow Sense is the dryer reading its own airflow. A display model prints d80, d90 or d95 (the vent is about that much blocked); a model with no display lights the Flow Sense bars on the panel — more bars, more blockage. The code stays after the cycle so you see it.

2

The reset: press Power off, unplug the dryer (an electric dryer: switch both halves of its double breaker off) for one full minute, then plug it in or switch the breaker back on and start a Time Dry.

3

A Wi-Fi model shows the code and the next step in the ThinQ app under the dryer's tile; any model with a Smart Diagnosis mark sends its fault to the app when you hold the phone to the mark and press the button the app names for three seconds.

4

An electric dryer that runs and never heats, with no code, is nearly always one leg of its 240V supply gone — one of the two breaker halves tripped, or a cord terminal loose. That is a licensed installer's wiring, not a dryer part.

5

The model and serial plate is inside the door rim (open the door and look at the frame) or on the back panel. Every warranty call starts with those two numbers.

Section 1 of 2

Airflow — the vent

The three Flow Sense codes are one fault at three levels. Work the same checks for all of them.

d80#1
Fix at home
Code

Vent about 80% blocked

What it means

The dryer measured the exhaust air and found it backing up. The duct between the dryer and the outside is most of the way blocked.

Check first
  1. Pull the lint filter and wash it in warm soapy water — dryer sheets leave a film that holds air back even on a filter that looks clean. Dry it before it goes back.
  2. Pull the dryer out and look at the duct behind it: a crushed or kinked flexible duct, or a run of foil duct packed with lint. Take it off the dryer and look inside both ends.
  3. Go outside while the dryer runs on Air Dry and hold a hand at the vent hood — strong, warm air is good; a trickle means the run or the hood is clogged. A hood flap stuck shut, a bird's nest or a screen over the hood stops it cold.
  4. Count the length and the bends: every 90° elbow counts as 5 feet, a 45° as 2.5 feet, and the whole run should not pass 35 feet. A long run with four elbows clogs every few months.
The fix

Clean the duct end to end (a vent brush kit on a drill does it from inside), replace crushed foil duct with rigid or semi-rigid metal, free the hood flap, then reset and run a Time Dry — the code clears on a clean run. A dryer that prints d80 on a short, clean metal duct has a blocked blower housing inside — a service call.

d90#2
Fix at home
Code

Vent about 90% blocked

What it means

The same airflow fault one step worse — the exhaust is almost fully backed up, and clothes come out damp after a full cycle.

Check first
  1. The lint filter, washed and dried.
  2. The duct behind the dryer, off the dryer and looked into at both ends.
  3. The outside hood with the dryer running — a trickle of air means a clogged run.
The fix

Clean the whole run and the hood, replace crushed foil duct with metal, reset and run a Time Dry. Keep using the dryer only after the vent is clear — a blocked vent is a lint fire waiting.

d95#3
Check, then call
Code

Vent almost fully blocked

What it means

Nearly no air is leaving the dryer. The dryer will run long, dry little and run hot.

Check first
  1. Stop and clean the vent before the next load — the lint filter, the duct behind the dryer, the whole run to the hood, the hood itself.
  2. Look for the usual culprit: a flexible duct crushed flat behind a dryer pushed hard against the wall, or a hood flap frozen or painted shut.
The fix

A d95 that stays after the whole run is clean and metal is a blockage inside the dryer's own blower housing or exhaust — a service call. Do not run it on a blocked vent.

Stop & call

A d95 on a clean, short metal duct is a blockage inside the dryer. Leave it off and call it in — a dryer that cannot exhaust runs hot.

Flow Sense#4
Fix at home
Code

Flow Sense bars lit

What it means

The no-display version of d80 / d90 / d95. The Flow Sense bars on the panel light as the vent clogs — one bar is a warning, every bar is a vent that is nearly shut.

Check first
  1. The lint filter, washed and dried.
  2. The duct behind the dryer and the outside hood, with the dryer running.
The fix

Clean the run and the hood; the bars go dark on the next clean run. Every bar lit on a clean metal duct is a blockage inside the dryer — a service call.

Section 2 of 2

The door, the sensors and the power

dE#5
Fix at home
Code

Door open

What it means

The dryer was asked to start and the door switch did not report closed.

Check first
  1. Push the door shut until it clicks. A towel or a strap over the rim keeps it from latching.
  2. The latch and the strike on the frame are clean and not bent.
  3. Reset (unplug one minute) and try again.
The fix

A door that latches and still prints dE after a reset has a door switch that is not reporting — a part behind the front panel.

tE1#6

Also printed as tE2 · tE3

Service call
Code

Temperature sensor fault

What it means

One of the dryer's thermistors is reading open or shorted. tE1 is the exhaust sensor, tE2 the inlet sensor, tE3 the third sensor on a heat-pump model.

Check first
  1. Reset (unplug one minute) and run a Time Dry. A sensor code that clears and stays gone was a power blip.
The fix

A tE code that returns is the thermistor or its wiring — a part inside the cabinet, a technician's job. The dryer will not heat until it is replaced.

Stop & call

A tE1, tE2 or tE3 after a reset is a service call. Write down which one and file it with the model and serial.

nP#7

Also printed as PS

Check, then call
Code

No power on one leg

What it means

An electric dryer runs its motor on 120V and its heater on 240V. The control sees one of the two hot legs missing, so the drum turns and nothing heats.

Check first
  1. The dryer's breaker is a double (two handles tied together). One half tripped looks on; switch both halves fully off, then fully on.
  2. The dryer is plugged straight into its own 30-amp outlet, the plug seated all the way.
  3. A newly installed dryer: the cord was fitted to the terminal block for the outlet it has (3-prong or 4-prong). A cord on the wrong terminals prints this code.
The fix

A reset breaker clears it. A loose cord terminal, a 3-prong cord on a 4-prong setup, or a dead leg at the outlet is a licensed electrician's work — never a dryer part. A dryer on a sound 240V outlet that still prints nP has a fault on its own board; that is a service call.

Stop & call

nP with the breaker reset and the cord fitted right is a dead leg at the outlet or the dryer's board. The outlet is an electrician's job; the board is a warranty service call on a machine under warranty.

PF#8
Fix at home
Code

Power failure during the cycle

What it means

Not a fault. The power went out while the dryer was running and the cycle stopped where it was.

Check first
  1. Press Start/Pause — the dryer picks the cycle back up, or start a Time Dry to finish the load.
The fix

Nothing to fix. PF with no outage is a loose plug or a failing outlet.

CL#9

Also printed as cL

Fix at home
Code

Child lock is on

What it means

Not a fault. The panel is locked; the display reads CL and the buttons do nothing.

Check first
  1. Press and hold the button marked Child Lock (the small lock symbol under it) for three seconds.
The fix

The lock turns off and the panel answers again. It stays on through a power cycle on purpose.

Warranty · When to file

When it's a warranty call

Every unit leaves with the manufacturer's full factory warranty. The codes below name a part inside the machine — once the checks have ruled out the install, the power and the hoses, call LG's line with the model and serial, and text us if you want a hand with the claim.

All units are surplus inventory (open box, cancelled order, customer return, overstock, or minor scratch & dent). Every unit includes the manufacturer's full factory warranty. Please inspect thoroughly in person before purchasing — cosmetic imperfections or missing accessories are possible.

Still stuck?

Text us the model number and what it's doing — we'll point you at the next step.

A fix, a part, or a warranty call — the plate's model and serial plus one line about the symptom is all it takes to tell which.

These pages are educational. Every appliance is a little different — follow the manufacturer's manual and local code, and leave gas, water heater and 240V work to a licensed installer.