Error codes · KitchenAid · Cooktops

KitchenAid cooktop error codes: a flashing pan, a Hot that outlasts the cooking, and a lock.

A KitchenAid cooktop prints almost nothing: Hot while the glass over an element is still hot enough to burn, a flashing setting when an induction element finds no pan it can use, a lit padlock when the controls are locked. Each one below says what it means and how it clears; nearly all of them clear at home. A gas cooktop has no display at all — its faults are the spark and the flame, and those are on the cooktops troubleshooting page.

Covers: 2015-and-newer KitchenAid induction (KCIG550, KCIG556, KICU509, KICU569), electric (KCED600, KCED606, KCES550, KCES556) and gas (KCGS350, KCGS356, KCGS550, KCGS556, KCGS950, KCGS956) cooktops.

Jump to a code · 6 on this page

The code as the display prints it; an older spelling sits under it on the card.

KitchenAid · First

Before you clear it

KitchenAid prints F-and-E codes; a dishwasher with no display blinks the Clean light in groups that spell the code.

1

What the glass shows: an induction or touch-control electric cooktop prints a word or a symbol beside each element (Hot, a flashing setting, the padlock); an electric cooktop with knobs has a HOT light and nothing more; a gas cooktop prints nothing.

2

The reset: switch the cooktop's double breaker off for one full minute, then on. Wait for every Hot indicator to go out before you judge it — they stay on for a while after the elements are off.

3

Induction needs a magnetic pan: a refrigerator magnet that grips the bottom of the pan says it will heat. The pan also has to cover most of the element ring and sit flat — a small or warped pan is lost and the setting flashes.

4

A wet panel does nothing right: water, a cloth or a lid lying across the touch area holds a key down or stops the keys answering, and on most of these the cooktop beeps and shuts the elements off. Dry the glass before you call anything broken.

5

The model and serial plate is on the underside of the cooktop, read from the cabinet below beside the junction box, and it is printed on the installation sheet and the receipt too. Every warranty call starts with those two numbers.

Section 1 of 2

Signals from the glass

Hot#1

Also printed as HOT · H

Fix at home
Code

Surface still hot

What it means

Not a fault. The glass over that element is still hot enough to burn, and the word (or the HOT light on a knob cooktop, or an H on some induction tops) stays until it has cooled — 20–30 minutes after a long boil is normal.

Check first
  1. Wait. The indicator goes out on its own; nothing on the panel clears it early.
The fix

Nothing to fix. A Hot that never leaves an element that has sat cold for an hour, or never shows after heavy use, is that element's temperature sensor — a technician's part.

Flashing setting#2

Also printed as Flashing · Pan symbol

Fix at home
Code

No usable pan (induction)

What it means

The induction element's setting flashes (some models show a small pan symbol) because it found no pan it can heat — no pan, a pan that is not magnetic, one too small for the element, or one sitting off center.

Check first
  1. A magnet grips the bottom of the pan; aluminum, copper, glass and some stainless never register on induction.
  2. The pan covers most of the element ring and sits centered on it.
  3. The pan's bottom is flat — a warped base rocks and the element loses it; slide the pan a half inch and watch the setting steady.
  4. Try the same pan on another element; one element that flashes with a pan that works everywhere else is the fault.
The fix

A flat, magnetic, right-sized pan steadies the setting and the element heats. One element that flashes with a known-good pan is that element's coil or its board; every element flashing with a good pan is the induction generator — a service call, and on a machine under warranty a warranty service call.

Beeping, elements off#3

Also printed as Key held

Fix at home
Code

Something on the controls

What it means

Not a fault. The cooktop beeps and shuts every element off when a pan, a spill or a cloth sits on the touch controls for more than a few seconds — it is protecting against an element turned on by accident.

Check first
  1. Move whatever is on the controls and wipe the glass over them dry.
  2. A pan handle hanging over the control area counts — turn the pan.
  3. A pot that boiled over onto the keys: wipe it, then wait a minute for the glass to dry before pressing anything.
The fix

Clear the controls, dry the glass and press the element key again; the beeping stops as soon as the controls are clear. A cooktop that beeps with nothing on a dry panel has a key shorted in the control — a technician's part.

Section 2 of 2

The lock, the modes and the power

Lock#4

Also printed as Control Lock · Padlock

Fix at home
Code

Control lock on

What it means

Not a fault. The touch controls are locked so a child or a wipe-down cannot turn an element on; the padlock is lit and the keys do nothing.

Check first
  1. Press and hold the padlock key (Control Lock) for three seconds until the light goes out. On some, the cooktop has to be on — press Power first.
The fix

The elements answer again. Lock it on purpose before cleaning the glass.

Demo#5

Also printed as Demo Mode · Showroom

Fix at home
Code

Demo mode

What it means

Not a fault. The panel lights and takes settings for a sales floor, but no element heats. A cooktop that came off a floor display, or out of an outlet load, sometimes arrives this way.

Check first
  1. Every setting takes and no element warms, with the breaker on and the pan a magnet grips.
  2. Press and hold the key pair the manual names for demo (on many, the lock key with an element key, for several seconds) until the panel resets.
The fix

The elements heat again. If the manual's pair does nothing on yours, a technician exits it from the control's service mode.

Blank display#6

Also printed as No power

Check, then call
Code

No power to the controls

What it means

The touch controls are dark and nothing answers. The breaker is off or half-tripped, one of the two 240V legs is out, or the control has failed.

Check first
  1. The cooktop's double breaker: switch it fully off and back on — a tripped double breaker sits in the middle and looks on.
  2. Nothing else shares the circuit; a cooktop runs on its own 240V breaker, and a recent kitchen change that put something on it trips it.
  3. The panel is dry and nothing is resting on it; a touch panel under a wet cloth goes dark and ignores the first press.
The fix

Reset the breaker and the display comes back. A cooktop with both lines live at the breaker and a dark panel is the control or its power board — a service call, and on a machine under warranty a warranty service call. The junction box under the cooktop is 240V and a licensed electrician's to open; a breaker that trips again is the electrician's too.

Stop & call

A dark panel with the breaker on is a service call. A breaker that trips again the moment it is reset is the circuit or a shorted element — leave it off and call it in; a burnt smell from under the glass is breaker off and call.

Warranty · When to file

When it's a warranty call

Every unit leaves with the manufacturer's full factory warranty. The codes below name a part inside the machine — once the checks have ruled out the install, the power and the hoses, call KitchenAid's line with the model and serial, and text us if you want a hand with the claim.

Nothing on this page is a straight service call — every code here starts with a check you can make.

All units are surplus inventory (open box, cancelled order, customer return, overstock, or minor scratch & dent). Every unit includes the manufacturer's full factory warranty. Please inspect thoroughly in person before purchasing — cosmetic imperfections or missing accessories are possible.

Still stuck?

Text us the model number and what it's doing — we'll point you at the next step.

A fix, a part, or a warranty call — the plate's model and serial plus one line about the symptom is all it takes to tell which.

These pages are educational. Every appliance is a little different — follow the manufacturer's manual and local code, and leave gas, water heater and 240V work to a licensed installer.