GE range & oven error codes: an F code names the sensor, the keypad or the door lock — and the oven says the rest.

The control sees a key held down, or its own self-check failed. A spill on the panel and a pot lid leaning on it are the usual cause.

1. Press Clear/Off and wipe the panel dry — a wet or greasy panel holds a key down.
2. Nothing is resting against the panel: a pan lid, a towel, the range hood's cord.
3. Press each pad once and feel for one that does not spring back.
4. Reset at the breaker for one full minute.

A code that returns with a clean, dry panel is the keypad or the oven control — a part, and on a machine under warranty a warranty call. The cooktop still works meanwhile; the oven stays off until the part is in.

The sensor read the oven far hotter than the set point — during a bake, or during self-clean past its limit.

1. If it showed during self-clean: let the oven cool fully (an hour or more, door locked until then), press Clear/Off, and run the next self-clean on a cooler day with the kitchen windows open — a long clean on a hot day trips it.
2. The sensor probe at the back wall is straight and not touching a rack or the wall.
3. Reset at the breaker for one full minute and bake at 350°F with an oven thermometer in the middle: an oven that reads near 350°F with the code back is the sensor drifting; an oven that climbs past the set point with the dial untouched is a relay stuck closed.

A sensor that drifts is a part. A relay that sticks keeps the element on with the oven turned off — switch the range's breaker off and leave it off until the oven control is replaced. Both are a technician's job, and on a machine under warranty a warranty call.

The control reads no sensor at all — the probe's circuit is open, at the probe or at its plug behind the back panel.

1. The sensor probe at the back wall of the oven is in place and its bracket screws are tight; a probe knocked loose by a rack shows this code.
2. Reset at the breaker for one full minute and try Bake.
3. A range that was just moved or had its back off may have the sensor's plug loose behind the back panel — that is a technician's reach, not a home one.

F3 that returns after a reset is the oven temperature sensor or its harness — a part a technician replaces from the back of the range. The cooktop still works while you wait.

The control reads the sensor shorted — the probe itself, or its wiring pinched behind the oven liner.

1. Reset at the breaker for one full minute and try Bake. The sensor probe at the back wall is the part either way; there is nothing else to look at.

F4 that returns is the oven temperature sensor or its harness — a part, a technician's job, and on a machine under warranty a warranty call.

The control sees one pad pressed for longer than a hand would press it. The keypad's membrane has shorted, or something is holding a pad down.

1. Press Clear/Off and wipe the whole panel dry; look for a spill that ran under the edge of the glass.
2. Nothing leans on the panel. On a range under a microwave, the microwave's cord and the hood's edge are the usual suspects.
3. Reset at the breaker for one full minute.

F7 that returns with a clean, dry panel and nothing touching it is the keypad (on most models the keypad and the control are one assembly) — a part, and on a machine under warranty a warranty call.

The self-clean door lock did not reach locked (or unlocked) in the time the control allows. The latch motor, its switch, or something in the way of the latch.

1. The oven is not in self-clean: if it is, let it cool fully — the door stays locked until the cavity is cool, and that can take an hour after the clean ends.
2. The oven door is closed flat with nothing caught in it, and the latch slot at the top of the door frame is clear of foil or a rack bumper.
3. Press Clear/Off, then reset at the breaker for one full minute. Never force a locked door — the latch bends and the new lock will not catch.

A latch that does not move after a cool-down and a reset is the door lock motor or its switch — a part, a technician's job, and on a machine under warranty a warranty call. The oven may refuse to bake until it is replaced.

The control reads the door lock switch in a state it does not believe — locked and unlocked at once, or neither. The switch, its wiring, or the latch stuck halfway.

1. The oven is cool and not in self-clean; the door closes flat and the latch slot is clear.
2. Press Clear/Off and reset at the breaker for one full minute.

FC that returns is the door lock assembly or its harness — a part, a technician's job, and on a machine under warranty a warranty call.