GE cooktop error codes: a flashing pan, a Hot that will not go away, and a wiring message that is an electrician's.
A GE cooktop's display says very little: Hot when the glass is still hot, LOC when the controls are locked, a flashing element display when an induction element finds no pan it can use, and bAd LinE when the cooktop was wired wrong at the install. The GE, GE Profile and Café badges run one control, so the words read the same. A gas cooktop has no display at all — its faults are the spark and the flame, and the troubleshooting page covers those. Find the word below and take the checks in order.
Covers: 2015-and-newer electric (JP3030, JP3530, JP5030, JP5036, PP7030, PP9030, PP9036, CEP70302, CEP90302), induction (PHP7030, PHP7036, PHP9030, PHP9036, CHP90301, CHP95302, CHP9036) and gas (JGP3030, JGP5030, JGP5036, PGP7030, PGP7036, PGP9030, PGP9036, CGP95302) cooktops under the GE, GE Profile and Café badges.
GE prints a code on the display (E22, F7, dE); a machine with no display blinks a light pattern — count the blinks and read the manual's table.
1
Electric and induction cooktops with touch controls print a word or a symbol per element (Hot, LOC, a flashing display); a cooktop with knobs has a HOT light and nothing else; a gas cooktop prints nothing.
2
The reset: switch the cooktop's double breaker off for one full minute, then on. Wait for the Hot indicators to clear before judging it — they stay on for a while after the elements are off.
3
Induction needs a magnetic pan: a refrigerator magnet sticks to the bottom of a pan that works. The pan must also cover enough of the element ring — a 6-inch pan on a 9-inch element flashes.
4
A wet panel does nothing: water, a cloth or a pot lid resting on the touch controls holds a key down or stops them answering — dry the glass before you call it broken.
5
The model and serial plate is on the underside of the cooktop (reach it from the cabinet below, beside the junction box) and printed on the installation sheet; the receipt carries it too. Every warranty call starts with those two numbers.
Section 1 of 2
What the element display says
Hot#1
Also printed as HOT
Fix at home
Code
Surface still hot
What it means
Not a fault. The glass over that element is still hot enough to burn, and the word (or the HOT light on a knob cooktop) stays on until it cools — 20–30 minutes after a long boil is normal.
Check first
Wait. The indicator goes out on its own; nothing on the panel clears it early.
The fix
Nothing to fix. Hot that never leaves an element that has been cold for an hour is that element's temperature sensor — a part.
Flashing#2
Fix at home
Code
No usable pan (induction)
What it means
The induction element's display flashes because it found no pan it can heat — no pan, a pan that is not magnetic, a pan too small for the element, or a pan sitting off center.
Check first
A magnet sticks firmly to the bottom of the pan; aluminum, copper, glass and some stainless do not work on induction.
The pan covers most of the element ring and sits centered on it.
The pan's bottom is flat — a warped pan rocks and the element loses it.
Try the same pan on another element; an element that flashes with a pan that works everywhere else is the fault.
The fix
Use a magnetic, flat, right-sized pan and the display steadies and heats. One element that flashes with a known-good pan is that element's coil or its board; every element flashing with a good pan is the induction generator — a service call, and on a machine under warranty a warranty call.
LOC#3
Fix at home
Code
Control lock on
What it means
Not a fault. The touch controls are locked so a child or a wipe-down cannot turn an element on; the display reads LOC or the padlock is lit.
Check first
Press and hold the Lock pad (the one with the padlock) for three seconds.
The fix
The lock turns off and the elements answer again. Lock it on purpose before cleaning the glass.
Section 2 of 2
Power and the wiring
bAd LinE#4
Service call
Code
Wired wrong at the install
What it means
The control measured the voltage on its lines and found the cooktop connected wrong at the junction box — a line swapped with the neutral, or one line missing. It will not run until the wiring is right.
Check first
This shows on a new cooktop or right after electrical work in the kitchen — the install, not the machine.
Switch the cooktop's breaker off. The connection is inside the junction box under the cooktop, on a 240V circuit, and it is a licensed electrician's or the installer's to open.
The fix
The installer or a licensed electrician corrects the wiring at the junction box; the word clears on the next power-up. A cooktop wired right that still prints it is the control — a part, and on a machine under warranty a warranty call.
Stop & call
bAd LinE is the wiring. Switch the breaker off and have the installer or a licensed electrician correct the connection before the cooktop is used — a wrong connection can put 240V where the control expects 120V.
Blank display#5
Check, then call
Code
No power to the controls
What it means
The touch controls are dark and nothing answers. The breaker is off or half-tripped, one of the two 240V legs is out, or the control has failed.
Check first
The cooktop's double breaker: turn it fully off and back on — a tripped double breaker sits in the middle and looks on.
Nothing else shares the circuit; a cooktop runs on its own 240V breaker, and a recent kitchen change that put something on it trips it.
The panel is dry and nothing is resting on it; a touch panel under a wet cloth goes dark and ignores the first press.
The fix
Reset the breaker and the display comes back. A cooktop with both lines live at the breaker and a dark panel is the control or the power board — a service call, and on a machine under warranty a warranty call. A breaker that trips again is a licensed electrician's.
Stop & call
A dark panel with the breaker on is a service call. A breaker that trips again as soon as it is reset is the circuit or a shorted element — leave it off and call it in.
Beeping, elements off#6
Fix at home
Code
Something on the controls
What it means
Not a fault. The cooktop beeps and shuts every element off when a pan, a spill or a cloth sits on the touch controls for more than a few seconds — it protects against an element turned on by accident.
Check first
Move whatever is on the controls and wipe them dry.
A pan handle hanging over the control area counts — turn the pan.
The fix
Clear the controls, dry the glass, and press the element pad again; the beeping stops as soon as the controls are clear. A cooktop that beeps with nothing on a dry panel has a pad shorted in the control — a part.
Warranty · When to file
When it's a warranty call
Every unit leaves with the manufacturer's full factory warranty. The codes below name a part inside the machine — once the checks have ruled out the install, the power and the hoses, call GE's line with the model and serial, and text us if you want a hand with the claim.
All units are surplus inventory (open box, cancelled order, customer return, overstock, or minor scratch & dent). Every unit includes the manufacturer's full factory warranty. Please inspect thoroughly in person before purchasing — cosmetic imperfections or missing accessories are possible.
Still stuck?
Text us the model number and what it's doing — we'll point you at the next step.
A fix, a part, or a warranty call — the plate's model and serial plus one line about the symptom is all it takes to tell which.
These pages are educational. Every appliance is a little different — follow the manufacturer's manual and local code, and leave gas, water heater and 240V work to a licensed installer.