Bosch washer error codes: most of them are water in, water out, or the door.

The washer opened its inlet valve and the water level never rose in time. Nine times in ten the water is not reaching the valve; on an AquaStop model the tap symbol lights with it.

1. Both taps behind the washer are fully open — a tap a quarter turn open fills so slowly the control gives up.
2. The fill hoses are not kinked behind the machine, and the mesh screens where each hose meets the washer are clean (unscrew the hose, pull the screen with pliers, rinse).
3. A faucet at the nearest sink runs with normal pressure; a well pump or a house filter that has dropped the pressure stalls the fill.
4. An AquaStop hose (the thick hose with a box at the tap end) that has tripped is shut for good — the box is replaced as a part.

Open the taps all the way, clean the screens, straighten the hoses, then reset and run Rinse. With every tap open and the pressure good, the inlet valve on the washer is not opening — a part.

Water came in but never reached the level the cycle needs — a slow fill, or water leaving as fast as it enters.

1. Everything under E17: the taps, the screens, the pressure.
2. The drain hose depth — a hose pushed to the bottom of the standpipe siphons the water back out while the washer fills. It sits 4–6 inches in, no more.
3. Reset (power off one minute) and run Rinse.

Fix the fill or the siphon and the code clears. A washer that fills at a normal rate, holds its water and still prints E29 has a level sensor or a sensor hose reading wrong — a part, a service call.

The drain pump ran and the water level did not drop — the hose is kinked, the pump filter is full, or the standpipe is blocked.

1. The drain hose is not kinked or crushed behind the washer, and it sits only 4–6 inches into the standpipe.
2. The pump filter behind the small door at the bottom right of the front: put a towel and a shallow pan down, pull the little drain hose beside it and let it empty, then turn the cap out. Pull the coin, the sock, the hair tie; rinse it and screw it back in snug.
3. The standpipe itself drains — pour a bucket of water down it; if it backs up, the house drain is clogged, not the washer.
4. Suds. Non-HE detergent or too much of it makes a foam the pump cannot move; run Rinse with nothing added.

Clear the hose, the filter or the drain and run Spin. A pump that hums and moves nothing with a clean filter is the drain pump — a part, and on a machine under warranty a warranty call.

The water left the drum, but slower than the control allows — the start of a clog rather than a full one.

1. The pump filter as under E18 — a filter half full of lint drains slowly for weeks before it stops.
2. The drain hose runs without a dip or a loop that holds water behind the machine.
3. The standpipe or the sink drain is slow — a bucket of water poured down it should disappear at once.

A clean filter and a straight hose clear it. If it comes back with both clean, the pump is weak — a part.

The sensor in the base of the washer found water under the drum — the AquaStop safety. The control shuts the inlet and pumps out.

1. Turn off both taps and pull the washer out. Look at the drain hose connection at the back of the machine, then at each fill hose end.
2. The pump filter cap at the bottom front — was it screwed back in straight after the last cleaning?
3. The detergent drawer: a drawer packed with softener residue overflows down the front and into the base.
4. Was the drum overfilled with suds? Foam pushed out of the drum lands in the base and trips the same sensor.

Tighten or reseat whatever was loose, dry the base (tip the machine back onto a towel with a helper), and run Rinse. If the base fills again with every hose tight and the cap straight, the leak is inside — a hose off the pump, the door boot, a drum seal. That is a service call.

The motor did not turn when the control drove it, or its speed sensor reported nothing.

1. Take half the load out and try again — a drum packed tight on a compact washer stalls the motor.
2. A new washer: the shipping bolts are out of the back.
3. Reset (power off one minute) and run an empty Spin. If the drum turns freely by hand but the motor never runs, it is the motor or its board.

E02 that shows with a normal load after a reset is the motor, its carbon brushes on a brushed model, or the drive board — a service call, not a home repair.

The motor's control electronics reported a fault — the inverter that drives the brushless motor, or the link between it and the main control.

1. Cut the power for five full minutes, power it back up and run an empty Spin.

E57 that returns is the motor control module or the main board — a part inside the cabinet, a service call.