Amana washer error codes: nearly all of them are the fill, the drain, or the lid.

The washer waited for the fill and the water level never got where it should. Nearly always the water is not reaching the valve.

1. Both taps behind the washer are fully open, hot and cold — a tap a quarter turn open fills so slowly the control gives up.
2. The fill hoses are not kinked behind the machine, and the mesh screens where each hose meets the washer are clean (shut the taps, unscrew the hose, pull the screen with pliers, rinse).
3. A faucet at the nearest sink runs with normal pressure; a well pump or a house filter that has dropped the pressure stalls the fill.
4. Some water reached the basket and LF printed anyway: the pressure is low. No water at all with open taps: the valve.

Open the taps all the way, clean the inlet screens, straighten the hoses, then reset and run a cycle. With every tap open, clean screens and good pressure, the inlet valve on the washer is not opening — a part, and on a machine under warranty a warranty call.

The pump ran and the water level did not drop in the time the control allows.

1. The drain hose is not kinked or crushed behind the washer, and it sits only 4–6 inches into the standpipe — pushed to the bottom, it siphons and the pump cannot push against it.
2. The standpipe itself drains — pour a bucket of water down it; if it backs up, the house drain is clogged, not the washer.
3. Suds. Non-HE detergent or too much of it makes a foam the pump cannot move; run a Drain & Spin with nothing added.
4. Front-load: the pump filter behind the small door at the bottom front — towel and pan down, cap out, pull the coin and the hair tie, rinse, screw back in snug.

Clear the hose, the drain or the filter and run Drain & Spin. A pump that hums and moves nothing with a clear hose is the drain pump — a part, and on a machine under warranty a warranty call.

Start was pressed and the lid switch did not report closed. On some cycles the lid has to be opened and closed once before the washer will go on.

1. Close the lid with nothing on top of it, open it, close it again and press Start.
2. The strike (the metal tab on the lid) is straight and the slot it drops into is clean; detergent residue in the slot keeps the switch from seeing it.
3. Reset (unplug one minute) and try again.

A lid that closes flat and still prints lid after a reset has a lid switch that is not reporting — part of the lid-lock assembly under the top panel, a technician's part.

The control told the lid lock to engage and the lock never reported locked.

1. Open and close the lid once, firmly, and press Start.
2. Look at the strike where it enters the lock slot — bent, or packed with lint or detergent, it never seats.
3. Nothing is sitting on the lid.
4. Reset (unplug one minute).

A clean strike that seats and still prints dL is the lid-lock assembly — a part under the top panel, a technician's job. The washer will not run a cycle until it is replaced.

The cycle ended and the lid lock did not release.

1. Wait two minutes with the washer on — the lock releases once the basket has stopped turning.
2. Unplug the washer for one minute; the lock drops when the power goes.

If the lid stays locked after a one-minute unplug, the lid-lock assembly is the part. Do not pry the lid.

The motor saw a load heavier than the basket can move through a cycle.

1. Take some of the load out — the basket wants to be no more than three quarters full, loosely, with a heavy item (a comforter, a rug) on its own with a towel or two.
2. The load is not wrapped around the agitator or the impeller post.
3. Press Start to continue, or turn the dial off and on and restart.

Lighten the load and run it again. A half-empty basket that still prints oL on every cycle is the drive — a technician looks at the motor and the gearcase.

The basket could not come up to spin speed without hitting the cabinet, so the washer stopped and tried to redistribute. It gives up after a few tries.

1. Open the lid and spread the load. One heavy item alone needs two or three towels beside it.
2. A packed basket cannot balance; take some out.
3. The washer sits flat on all four feet. Rock it corner to corner; a foot off the floor is turned down until it stops rocking, then its lock nut tightened.

Rebalance the load and run Drain & Spin. If a level washer with a normal load prints uL on every cycle, the suspension rods are worn — a part.

The washer paused to let the foam settle and could not clear it. Too much detergent, or detergent that is not HE.

1. The detergent is HE (the hE logo on the bottle) and the dose is the cap's lowest line — about two tablespoons for a normal load.
2. The drain hose is not pushed to the bottom of the standpipe — foam that cannot leave looks like more foam.

Let it finish; the washer adds rinses by itself. Next load: HE detergent, half the dose. A Drain & Spin with nothing in it clears the leftover foam.

Not a fault. The power went out while the washer was running; the cycle stopped where it was.

1. Press Start to pick the cycle back up, or select Drain & Spin to finish the load.

Nothing to fix. PF with no outage in the house is a plug loose in the outlet or an outlet that is failing.