Maytag washer error codes: the lid, the fill and the drain cover most of them.

The washer asked for water and the level did not come up inside the time the control allows (about ten minutes on a top-load). The water is not reaching the valve, or it is arriving too slowly.

1. Both taps behind the washer are open all the way. A tap turned on halfway after a move is the usual cause.
2. Each fill hose runs without a kink, and the screen inside each hose end at the washer is clear — turn the taps off, unscrew the hose, lift the little mesh out with pliers and rinse it.
3. The nearest sink runs with normal pressure on hot and cold; a house filter that has clogged or a well pump cycling slowly starves the fill.
4. Top-load: the lid is closed. The washer will not fill with the lid up, and the pause reads back as a long fill on some models.

Open the taps, clean the screens, straighten the hoses, reset and run Drain & Spin, then a Rinse & Spin. With the taps open, the screens clean and no water coming in on either side, the inlet valve on the back of the washer is the part — a technician's job.

The pump ran for its allowed time and the water level did not drop. Something between the tub and the standpipe is slowing the water.

1. The drain hose behind the washer is not kinked, crushed against the wall, or pushed down the standpipe more than 4–6 inches — too deep and it siphons back.
2. The standpipe takes a bucket of water poured straight down it; if that backs up, the house drain is clogged, not the washer.
3. Front-load: the pump filter behind the small door at the bottom front — towel and pan down, turn the cap out, pull the coin, the sock, the hair tie, rinse the filter and screw it back in snug.
4. Suds. A tub full of foam from a non-HE detergent or a double dose moves slowly; run Drain & Spin, then a Rinse & Spin with nothing added.

Clear the hose, the standpipe or the filter and run Drain & Spin. A pump that hums with a clear hose and filter and moves no water is the drain pump — a part, and on a machine under warranty a warranty call.

The level sensor saw more water than the cycle called for. Either the inlet valve did not close or the water came in from the drain side.

1. Close both taps. If the water keeps rising, the drain hose is too deep in a standpipe that is backing up — water is coming back in from the drain.
2. If it stops rising once the taps are closed, the inlet valve is not shutting.

Pull the drain hose back to 4–6 inches in the standpipe and clear the house drain; the code clears. A valve that will not close is a part — leave the taps off until it is changed.

The dispenser did not move to the position the control asked for, or the detergent did not draw. On a Load & Go model the bulk tank's drive is part of it.

1. Pull the dispenser drawer and wash it — softener and gel detergent set hard in the channels and jam the diverter underneath.
2. Load & Go: the bulk tank is pushed in all the way and its cap is tight; a tank a half inch out reads as a fault.
3. Reset (unplug one minute) and run a Rinse & Spin with the drawer empty.

A clean, seated dispenser that still prints F8E2 has a dispenser motor or its position switch out — a part, replaced behind the console by a technician.

The washer felt hot water arrive on a cold fill. The fill hoses are on the wrong inlets.

1. Follow each hose from the wall to the washer; the cold tap's hose belongs on the inlet marked C (or blue), the hot tap's on H.

Swap the hoses. The code clears on the next fill.

The control cannot read the water level — the pressure sensor is open, or its air hose has come off the tub.

1. Reset (unplug one minute) and run a small cold load. A one-time sensor code after a power blip stays gone.

A level code that returns is the pressure sensor, its air hose or the harness, inside the console — a technician's job.

The inlet water temperature sensor reads open or shorted, so the control cannot tell warm from cold.

1. Reset (unplug one minute) and run a cold Rinse & Spin.

A temperature code after a reset is the thermistor or its wiring — a part. Cold cycles still run until it is changed.

The basket did not turn the way the control drove it — the speed sensor reported nothing, or the motor could not reach the speed it was asked for. A top-load packed so tight the basket cannot move prints the same code.

1. Take half the load out and press Start — a stalled, packed basket is the usual cause on a top-load.
2. With the washer off, turn the basket by hand; it should coast a turn or two. A basket that drags has something wedged under it (a sock, a bra wire).
3. Front-load: the four shipping bolts are out of the back.
4. Reset (unplug one minute) and run an empty Drain & Spin.

A basket that turns freely by hand and never under power, or a code that returns with a normal load, is the motor, its speed sensor or the drive board — a service call.

The shifter under the basket moves the drive between agitate and spin; the control told it to move and it never reported back.

1. Reset (unplug one minute) and run an empty Drain & Spin — listen for the click under the tub as spin begins.
2. The washer is level and nothing is wedged under the basket.

A shifter that never moves after a reset is the shifter (actuator) assembly under the tub — a part, replaced from below by a technician.

The main control board failed its own check.

1. Unplug the washer for five full minutes, plug it back in and start a cycle.

F1E1 that returns is the main control board — a part behind the console; a service call.

The board that drives the motor failed its check, or the motor's winding reads open to it.

1. Unplug the washer for five minutes and try a Drain & Spin.

A returning F1E2 is the motor control board or the motor itself — a service call.

A button has read as pressed for too long.

1. Press each button once and feel for one that does not come back up.
2. Wipe the panel dry — detergent on the console holds a touch key down.
3. Unplug for one minute.

A key still stuck after cleaning is the user interface (the console panel) — a part.

The console and the main control lost communication with each other, in one direction or both.

1. Unplug the washer for five minutes, plug it in and try a cycle.
2. A washer that just had its console or a board replaced may have the harness between them half seated — a technician's look.

F6E2 that returns is the harness or one of the two boards — a service call.

Not a fault. The power dropped while the washer was running and the cycle stopped where it was.

1. Press Start to pick the cycle back up, or select Drain & Spin to finish the load.

Nothing to fix. PF with no outage in the house means the plug is loose in the outlet or the outlet is failing — plug the washer straight into the wall, never a strip.

Not a fault. The panel is locked so the cycle cannot be changed.

1. Press and hold the button the panel marks Control Lock (on most of these, the Cycle Signal or Drain & Spin key) for three seconds until the lock light goes out.

The panel answers again.